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Lilith 

WI4

   
Type:  Ice, 2 pitches, 200'
Original: WI4 [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 175
Submitted By: rocknice2 on Jan 9, 2017

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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BETA PHOTO: 2/8/17

Description 

P1: Start up a slab of ice next to a left facing corner, beneath the upper pillar of Lilith. Head left over a few large steps to an overhanging orange face with a right rising ramp beneath it. Follow the ramp to an island of trees and set up a belay. This is directly below the pillar so set up accordingly. There is a nice nook to shelter the belayer from falling ice.
Variation: see first comment.

P2: Climb up a left facing corner to the pillar. Climb the pillar on the right side to a nice rest before firing the final section.
Variation: see first comment.

Rappel of trees to ground with double or with single to P1 belay.

Location 

About 100' right of Big Brother area.

Protection 

Ice Screws


Comments on Lilith Add Comment
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By Jim Lawyer
Administrator
Jan 10, 2017

There are two variations that remove all the wandering on this route.

On the first pitch, you can approach the belay ledge directly from below, making this pitch much more difficult. If it's not iced up, then you can dry tool a hidden crack in a right-facing wall (gear to 3"). Both options are great, and make a much nicer first pitch.

On the second pitch, there is a direct approach to the column from the belay ledge. On the overhanging wall, directly above the belay trees, climb hangers (great #0.75/#1 Camalot placement) up the overhanging wall to a ledge directly below the upper column.
By Mike Hazard
Jan 17, 2017

Any idea what the rock variation goes at? I went up this way intending to go up the steeper bit of ice but it looked a bit hollow and I decided to opt for the rock corner. Nice climbing, would have been even better if I had brought any rock gear up.

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