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Lil Jam 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 25'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: 2013
Season: Apr - Oct
Page Views: 169
Submitted By: Jay Harrison on May 16, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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I've been told the rating is sandbagged, that this is much harder than 5.9. Seemed on the easy side of that grade the day we sent it - which involved creating a makeshift "rack", since neither of us brought one. A couple bolt hangers, some resident stones, and a knotted cord or two sufficed.
Directions are simple: climb the crack. The top-out is the mental, and perhaps physical, crux.


On the Jammer Ledge, right end, just past the low roof; at a vertical crack which tapers from hands down low, to fingers higher up.


LOL - those bolt hangers worked well. I'd suggest a more typical trad rack, however.

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By Alex Mitchell
From: Cincinnati, OH
May 16, 2014

Maybe I don't have your balancing skills Jay but I found this route to be very sustained and harder than the 5.9s to the left.

Even so I still liked the route a lot and is a much better pitch than the looks of the one to the right.

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