|Type:||Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R [details]|
|Submitted By:||Pal Pocsi on Nov 4, 2009|
|Comments on Lil' Abner||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: North Kingstown, RI
Dec 2, 2009
|I don't know where you get the "R" from. You can reach up and place a green Camalot in a pod in the bottom of the crack. If you want to be very careful you can also place a purple one just to the left of the green. Once you clip those that gets you through the crux and then you can easily place bomber gear the rest of the way up.|
By Pal Pocsi
From: Budapest, Hungary
Dec 5, 2009
|Brian, I agree that this route probably isn't "R" for protection. I only did that because that's how the route is described in the Rock Climbing in Connecticut guidebook. I think a good spot for the thin seam at the start would be adequate and the protection higher up is fine. For the record, I haven't led this route, only top roped it once.|
From: East Brookfield MA
Sep 10, 2014
I also disagree with the R rating. In addition to the horizontal crack cam placement, I was also able to get a micronut (Omega Pacific Wedgie #1) at the top of the thin vertical crack. It took some cleaning but was as secure as a micronut can be. The rest of the climb took decent gear.
Like other climbs here, some cracks that look good from the ground are not so good once you get to them.