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Lil' Abner 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R [details]
Page Views: 745
Submitted By: Pal Pocsi on Nov 4, 2009

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Lil Abner crack.


Look for the thin crack/seam that starts behind a tree about 30 feet left from the right hand side of Lower Tier. Follow this crack, past some horizontal cracks to the top. The crux is about half way up when it feels like options for feet are thin and there are not many face holds.

The start of the climb is a bit hard to protect because the crack is so thin. Placement options are much better higher on the route. If you lead it, make sure to have a good spot. Top rope setup is easy on trees above with long webbing or static rope.


Trad gear to tree belay at top of route. Can also setup top rope.

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By Brian
From: North Kingstown, RI
Dec 2, 2009

I don't know where you get the "R" from. You can reach up and place a green Camalot in a pod in the bottom of the crack. If you want to be very careful you can also place a purple one just to the left of the green. Once you clip those that gets you through the crux and then you can easily place bomber gear the rest of the way up.
By Pal Pocsi
From: Budapest, Hungary
Dec 5, 2009

Brian, I agree that this route probably isn't "R" for protection. I only did that because that's how the route is described in the Rock Climbing in Connecticut guidebook. I think a good spot for the thin seam at the start would be adequate and the protection higher up is fine. For the record, I haven't led this route, only top roped it once.
By javd von dauber
From: East Brookfield MA
Sep 10, 2014

I also disagree with the R rating. In addition to the horizontal crack cam placement, I was also able to get a micronut (Omega Pacific Wedgie #1) at the top of the thin vertical crack. It took some cleaning but was as secure as a micronut can be. The rest of the climb took decent gear.
Like other climbs here, some cracks that look good from the ground are not so good once you get to them.

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