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Upper Northeast Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Birdman T,TR 
Last Grapes T 
Last Grapes / Pink Drainpipe Exit T 
Like'n to Lichen/Bitchin' Lichen  T 
My Pink Half of the Drainpipe T 
North East Rib T 

Like'n to Lichen/Bitchin' Lichen  

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 1st pitch - Charles Cole, Dave Evans & Randy Vogel, 1981, 2nd pitch - Charles Cole and Gib Lewis, July 1987
Page Views: 184
Submitted By: Tradiban on Jun 2, 2015

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Description 

Some attractive crack climbing with an unfortunate section of loose blocks on pitch one. Pitch one is known as "Like'n to Lichen", starts on NE Farce for about 30ft then traverses left at a small bush to a cluster of loose blocks that are downright terrifying. Climb carefully through the blocks to a stance and good pro then step right to a 10c crux jam crack (go deep for finger locks). Follow a small dihedral through a roof and set up a belay above the roof or head up and left to a tree anchor above Last Grapes and My Pink Half of the Drainpipe.

P2 is known as "Bitchin' Lichen" and traverses right to a thin seam with a piton, then straight to to the corner of a roof with a bolt. (I haven't climbed this pitch yet but did some recon, the bolt looks ok but old)

Location 

Starts on NE Farce/El Whompo for 30ft. The loose block are obvious from the start.

Protection 

Thin pro needed for P2.


Comments on Like'n to Lichen/Bitchin' Lichen Add Comment
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By D. Evans
From: Tustin, California
Sep 8, 2016

I was on the first ascent of both of these routes, Lik'en to Lichen with Randy and Charles (in June 1980) and Bitchen Lichen (pronounced bitchen litchen) with Charles (in April 1984).

I just checked my journal from that period to check the dates and there is no mention of Gib Lewis being there on the day of the FA.

This makes me curious where Tradoholic got his/her "information."
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Sep 8, 2016

I remember Craig Fry claiming both these first ascents, free solo, on hash. I'll check my notes too, but as he has told us many times, he has a perfect and infallible memory.
By Tradiban
Sep 8, 2016

An admin musta added the FA because I didnt.

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