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YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter, Jessica True, Sean Gallup, Gino Gornnert, 2001
Page Views: 236
Submitted By: Ivan Rezucha on May 6, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (41)
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BETA PHOTO: Left side of Sleeping Beauty.

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  • Description 

    Approach: See Richard Rossiter's site for the approach to Sleeping Beauty. At the left side of Ledge Two, to the right of where the trail meets the cliff, is a tree growing against the rock and touching the overhang about 10' up. 15' left of the tree is a hand crack through the overhang. That's Kama Sutra, 10d. 10' left of that are bolts through the overhang at some obvious knobs. This is Lightspeed.

    The route: The roof is the crux. I did it as a high heel hook with a struggle to pull over my foot. My partner Chuck Graves did it as a mantle with butt on the lip. Neither was pretty. Higher up, at about the 3rd or 4th bolt, stay right, and then step back left. Easier climbing leads to the finish just right of the start of Aerial Boundaries. 85 feet.

    Between Kama Sutra and Lightspeed is the namesake trad route Sleeping Beauty, 5.10, FA Dan Hare and Scott Woodruff, 1983. It looks to me that Lightspeed and Sleeping Beauty share the same start, and therefore the start of Sleeping Beauty is now bolted. If this is the case, it appears that the bolts do not significantly change the nature of Sleeping Beauty, since there are gear possibilities at the roof.


    8 bolts with a 2-bolt anchor.

    Photos of Lightspeed Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Brent Pohlmann pulling the initial crux of  Lights...
    Brent Pohlmann pulling the initial crux of Lights...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Lenny starts up on Lightspeed at Sleeping Beauty.
    Lenny starts up on Lightspeed at Sleeping Beauty.
    Rock Climbing Photo: About to make the "technical crux" move ...
    About to make the "technical crux" move ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Jonathan cruising above the difficulties.
    Jonathan cruising above the difficulties.
    Rock Climbing Photo: As Pebby and I came down the North Trail after 6 h...
    As Pebby and I came down the North Trail after 6 h...

    Comments on Lightspeed Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Dana Ernst
    Jul 29, 2004

    This route is awesome! Excellent rock w/ excellent movement. The horn at the crux flexes a little and may rip off in someone's face someday. Nonetheless, this climb deserves 3-stars. It is easy to combine this pitch w/ Aerial Boundaries for a fun 2-pitch sport route. You can also do 2 raps w/ a 60M rope to get down. Rap from the achors on Aerial to the anchors on Lightspeed, which are ~15 ft higher (and to climber's right) than the anchors at the start to Aerial.
    By Bruce Pech
    Jul 30, 2004
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    Yup, the horn sure does flex when you crank over the crux roof. Be careful up there. The roof coupled with the nice, sustained .10 something face climbing from the crux to the 7th bolt merits at least two stars.
    By Ivan Rezucha
    From: Fort Collins, CO
    Jul 30, 2004

    There's really just 2 moves on this. One over the roof and one moving left higher up. I guess I still am comparing these one pitch (half rope length) nondescript sport climbs against the multiplitch Eldo, Lumpy and Park classics. Compared to those, this is one star at most.

    It's another discussion as to how the quallity ratings on this website should be applied. By rock (e.g., Sleeping Beauty), by area (e.g., Boulder Canyon), by style (e.g., sport vs. trad vs alpine), or by entire website (the original thought, I think).

    I consider a 3 star climb something I aspire to doing, something to dream about, if I haven't done it already. This climb, Lightspeed, is just one of very many similar climbs.

    Maybe you can tell that I'm a trad climber at heart.
    By brent pohlmann
    From: San Francisco, CA
    Aug 4, 2004

    This route rules Boulder Canyon! The two-pitch combo with Aerial Boundaries makes a great combo with lots of fun climbing. Couldn't stop giggling through the whole thing. Nice call Dana.
    By Kevin Neilson
    From: Boulder
    May 28, 2006

    I thought this was a nice route with several interesting moves with the most interesting being the crux roof at the start. I did the heel hook and think it's probably the best method, though it's a burly move getting your hips up over your feet. Some might call the initial move harder than 5.11a, but I suppose it depends on your burl factor. Update: I did this again in '09, and it felt more like 5.10 since I knew about the heel hook.
    By david goldstein
    Sep 14, 2006

    I agree w/ Ivan.
    By Richard Radcliffe
    From: Louisville, CO
    May 27, 2008
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

    Awkward crux move gettin' over the bulge followed by nondescript and wandering face climbing. One star at best and nowhere close to 5.11-, a, or anything else.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Jul 11, 2008
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    Short with low awkward crux. Might be 5.10d, might be 5.9+. Just awkward. Meh...
    If it were at any gym, they'd rate it 10+ I guess.
    By James R. Arnold
    Sep 28, 2008

    Climbed this yesterday with Joe Chorny. We both managed to lead it without incident. I'd have to agree with others that this route is not really 11a but mid 10. Perhaps new sport 11a which is really most of 1 grade lower.

    The lower roof pullover is harder if you are tall. I found that cruxes of several routes at this crag were tougher if you were tall (Lightspeed, Mystic Mile (both pitches), Into the Mystic). So shorter folks make sure to give this crag a visit!

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