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Unsorted Routes:

Lights Out At Ten Candles Out At Eleven 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Traditional: Mike Argueso & Rick Donnelly Sport: Mike Strassman & Mark Colby Rebolt: Ben Burnham & Vincent Greene
Season: Morning Shade
Page Views: 1,178
Submitted By: Hendrixson on Oct 3, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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Lights out a 10


Another engaging, slightly meandering clip-up similar to the nearby routes.

This route has a sordid history. My understanding, which may be wrong, is that this line crosses Mike Argueso's Thing, a bold traditional route climbed prior by Mike Argueso and Rick Donnelly. Mike Strassman and Mark Colby unknowingly bolted over this route to create Lights Out At Ten; Candles Out At Eleven. Rick Donnelly chopped the route. Ben Burnham and Vincent Greene rebolted the route but lowered the anchors. The route may continue on the old bolts past the anchors.


This route is between the bolted lines The Grips Of Wrath and In Lightning. It has bolts as opposed to the shuts founds on The Grips of Wrath.


Bolts & Chains

Photos of Lights Out At Ten Candles Out At Eleven Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Adambrah crushing Lights Out… on TR.  Photo: Cory...
Adambrah crushing Lights Out… on TR. Photo: Cory...
Rock Climbing Photo: Todd Wolfe (13 years old) leading lights out at 10...
Todd Wolfe (13 years old) leading lights out at 10...

Comments on Lights Out At Ten Candles Out At Eleven Add Comment
Show which comments
By Steve Pulver
From: Williston, ND
Oct 4, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I think I was told this is a Ben Burnham route, but the bolting style doesn't quite feel the same as the routes to the left. This one feels a little safer, not quite as PG-13 as those.
By Hendrixson
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 28, 2012

Updated the route information. Please correct any errors.
By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 16, 2013
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Too bad about the history of obliterating a trad line. Never the less, it is a fun route with a very thin steep slabby crux and my kids quite enjoyed climbing it.
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 17, 2015
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

crux is really tricky; jaspur and i have each hung here twice. at least it's nice and safe so an inexperienced leader expecting 10a probably won't get hurt.
By Mike Kane
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 17, 2015
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Since I'm having an ADD day and trolling mountain project, I'll add that I thought this climb was as hard as Thunderbolts (11a) at Sky Valley which I had climbed a couple of weeks prior. Figured I just totally blew the sequence. Which still may be possible....

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