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Lights in the Forest 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 6 pitches, 400', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: FFA Surette/Cannon '84, FA- Webster/Ross '76
Page Views: 3,651
Submitted By: stredna on Sep 7, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Paul Ross on the first ascent P3.photo Ed Webster

Description 

Memorable. 6 great pitches! Pro on the last pitch is R, but should not be an issue if you're climbing 11.

P1-Start at a bolt ladder to the right of Highway 61 (where the old tree climb began) and climb corner to ledge system above. 5.8 - 80'

P2- Undercling right under the overlap to ledge. 10b - 40'

P3- Move up and left via crack into a corner (bolt). Straight up into the chimney feature and then to another great belay ledge! 5.9 - 140'

P4- Up and at 'em! Up the 5.8 handcrack then traverse right under overlap to right edge and bust a move up (assume harder if you have a smaller ape-index) to a bolt above and a friction move to the belay. 11b - 90'

P5-6 May be combined. Move out right from belay to a bolt and to a devious 5.9 move, trend up and left to another bolt (crux) and climb a finicky friction move to easier climbing and the belay bolts. 5.11b - 50'

P6- Climb out right a bit and up, trending left a bit through some lichen, to the trees! 1 bolt protects the pitch. 5.9 - 60' An alternative at the start of p6 may be to traverse right to escape into an obvious feature.

Location 

Look for bolt ladder right of Highway 61. You can see the former tree-climb laying on the ground adjacent to the start.

Protection 

normal rack up to 3".


Photos of Lights in the Forest Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up from belay atop p2 at the start of p3
Looking up from belay atop p2 at the start of p3
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down on p5 (you can see the runouts)
Looking down on p5 (you can see the runouts)

Comments on Lights in the Forest Add Comment
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By john strand
From: southern colo
Sep 7, 2010

The best of the "easier", long 5.11's on Cathedral. Tremendous variety and quality of climbing.
FFA surette/cannon '84
FA- webster/ross '76
By dale polen
From: arivaca, az
Dec 15, 2011

This ia an awesome route. Great climbing and varied.
By climbnplay
From: Boston, MA
Jul 29, 2013

did this over the weekend - parts of it I led with a long branch in my mouth because there were so many thick spider webs and I didn't want to get bitten! it's clean now and it's a great route! dry. get on it.
By chuckdrew
From: Cape Elizabeth, Maine
Sep 5, 2014
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Excellent Route! Pitches 2,3, and 4 are some of the best on the cliff.

Pitch 5 and 6 are very heady - both are R rated in my opinion. There are bolts in the hardest sections but falling on the 5.9 climbing in between bolts would have serious consequences.

We aided up the bolt ladder on the first 10 feet of pitch one. Does anyone know what the free grade is? It is dirty but it didn't look like it would be too hard.

Some bolt beta: there is a bolt just after the crux on pitch 4 before you mantle onto the slab. If I had known that bolt was there before going through the crux I would not have wasted so much time trying to place shitty gear and getting pumped. Just clip the pin, motor through the crux, and head for the bolt... It is basically a 6 foot runout from the pin to the bolt.

Rock Climbing Photo: Mantling onto the pitch 4 slab. The bolt is direct...
Mantling onto the pitch 4 slab. The bolt is directly under him.
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of pitch 5. 2 feet below the bolt.
Start of pitch 5. 2 feet below the bolt.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Sep 5, 2014

I'm pretty sure the ladder replaces what used to be the tree start.

A really good climb, much overlooked.
By Tyler Rohr 2
From: Cambridge, MA
Aug 14, 2017

Good, full value climb! Pretty damn scary up top though.

Pitches 1-4 are all well protected but be prepared for things get spicy after that.

Some beta on pitch 6: After the lone bolt it was pretty unclear to me where to go. I found a piton up and right in small feature (maybe 10-15 ft). After that it was run out to the the top and seemed like a choice between more steep and kinda featured/kinda steep and kind of dirty/less steep and really dirty. I ended up moving right maybe 20 feet from the piton through dirty ground and then the rest of the way up (30 or so feet?). A lot of the climbing involved scrapping off lichen before committing to a foot, but eventually, far right, things cleaned up. Anyway, maybe I'm a wimp, but I thought this was pretty serious and scary. Probably less so if cleaned up a bit though.

Still worth doing!

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