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Big Easy Cliffs
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L to R R to L Alpha
Big Easy T,TR 
Boy Scout T,TR 
Bubba June T,TR 
Dilema T,TR 
Doddridge County T,TR 
Entrance Crack T,TR 
Grafitti Crack T 
Lightning S,TR 

Lightning 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
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Page Views: 445
Submitted By: J.Nichols on Apr 24, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: Lightning

Description 

Bouldery start, High first bolt. If you peel off before completing the crux doing this top rope be ready for a good pendulum. Crux is pulling the overhang.

Location 

Start about 15 feet to the left of Boy Scout under a small overhang. Lower or rappel.

Protection 

Bolted route and has fixed anchors at the top.


Comments on Lightning Add Comment
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By Danny Rowand
From: mannington, wv
Jun 9, 2014

the gaston at the top going to the anchors was the crux for me. maybe cause i ran outta gas. thought is was a solid 10b
By Hyland Markle.
From: Grenoble, Isere
Jan 11, 2016

I agree with Danny, the crack was more difficult than I expected and got a little heady. I really enjoyed this climb though: bouldery start to a very thin flake (that thing will pop soon be careful), slabby traverse, then that gnarly, unique crack. Pretty 5.10+, 10b is a solid grade for it, but a stout 10b.

Most definitely clip the third bolt after you pull the roof unless you are super confident you won't fall; if you screw it up you'll totally deck, most likely not with hips at the bolt. I said above about that thin little flake, it is just above the third bolt if I remember (from the picture). Pull down not out on it and it should last a while. :)

ALSO: it is imperative that a follower on top rope climbs THROUGH THE DRAWs, not with a sling-shot top rope from the anchor. There is a large swing and you will totally deck anywhere below the 4th-5th bolt.

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