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Wind Buttress
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Lightning Wind 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 190'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: James Garrett, September 17, 1995
Page Views: 54
Submitted By: grk10vq on Apr 27, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Lightning Wind

Description 

Named after a howling electrical storm, Lightning Wind climbs two pitches of solid, Ibex-style rock through a crack system and over a delicate, difficult face. The route is fluid and consistent until its very end when it exits at a committing finish and funky bulge.

P1: Climb a thin, well protected crack to a small belay ledge at a two bolt anchor. Fun and straight forward. (5.9) 100 feet

P2: Break right off the belay and onto a thin, tense face. Follow this up, passing bolts to a bulge and short, thin crack. A more wandering route, the second pitch finishes at a puzzling, horizontal crack/bulge protected by a bashie. Finish at a two bolt anchor on the summit. Great, then extremely funky at its final moves. (5.11) 90 feet

Descent: Rappel the route.

Location 

On the right side of the Wind Buttress, Lightning Wind starts just before the right gully.
In the recess, look left for an obvious crack.

Protection 

A light, single set of small cams up to 2 inches, draws, and runners.


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