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Ultegra S 

Lightning Rod Arete 

YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Dan Beck, Drew Stewart
Page Views: 358
Submitted By: Mike Wilkinson on Oct 9, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Searching around the corner for better holds

Description 

From Redriverclimbing: Afternoon sun. Stick clip the first and brave a bit of choss down low, then enjoy thoughtful and balancey climbing to the top. Gets some late-afternoon sun.

Location 

The striking arete on the northwest corner of the pinnacle. Take the main trail left past the wall with Dura-Ace and Ultegra. Stay left after the split between rock walls. Follow the trail down and around the corner, step up through a body-sized crack, and continue to the obvious arete.

Protection 

8 bolts to a chain anchor.


Photos of Lightning Rod Arete Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Crawling out of the second large ledge
Crawling out of the second large ledge

Comments on Lightning Rod Arete Add Comment
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By Ashley Vonada
Apr 16, 2017

Pretty incredible climb! Also finding this crag on a busy weekend is a rare treat! I gotta say that I felt pretty heady between bolts 4-5. The climb leads you hard left as the right side of the arete is pretty blank, but the bolts are on the right. I can safely say it was one of the more scary whips I've taken. I'd love just 1 or 2 more bolts...even if they are on the right side. Overall, a fun, technical, somewhat bold climb!! Thanks for the adrenaline push!!
By Rob King
From: New Brunswick, NJ
Aug 15, 2017
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This climb terrified me. Big moves around the arete again and again to holds that are worse than you'd like. There is a big pocket on the left side of the arete that may be a puddle if it has rained recently BUT you can use just part of it and still pull through. Very heady

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