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Lightning Crack 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: F.A. Rob Settlemire, Gary Adams F.F.A Jim Yates, John Bald
Page Views: 315
Submitted By: Muscrat on Jun 7, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Lightning Crack. Anchors are at the small tree at ...

Description 

An absolute gem. A zigzagging finger to hand to fist crack (5.9+) leads to the money; a thin finger bolt of lightning arching straight up to the hidden chains. One of the most obvious and eye catching lines on the crag.

Location 

Look for the zigzag crack just past the overhung cobbled face in the large alcove up and towards the end of the rock band. Easily seen as you approach the climb. There is a small tree on a ledge where the substantial chains will be found. Easily rapped.

Protection 

Standard rack to 3". Doubles .3-.75. Slings and nuts. Chains for anchor.


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By Muscrat
Administrator
Jun 7, 2015

This is one of the greats. Great tick, much harder for those of fat fingers, the upper crack just gets thinner and thinner. I took triples of aliens black to yellow (.3-1). If you can't get your fingers in the crack, you are mighty fucked. Thin fingered friend and follower went right through where i cursed and struggled.
Afterwards,be sure to play on the slabs below the chains. No pro, but fun technical wandering.
By Salamanizer suchoski
Administrator
From: Vacaville Ca.
Sep 29, 2017

The crack below is ok. The finger crack up high is awesome but I thought it was a one move wonder... pretty stiff move though. There is more than just a finger crack up there ;)

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