REI Community
2. Duet Area etc
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Add Libs T 
All Day Sucker T 
British Were Coming, The T 
Condemned Man T 
Continuation of Rock Candy T 
Duet T 
Duet Direct T 
Fall from Grace  T,S 
Jawbreaker (not completely done)  T 
Light Brigade, The T 
Lightning Crack  T 
Pops-Sick-Hill T 
Raven Crack T 
Rock Candy T 
Rodan T 
Sam's Ghost T 
Sam's Swan Song T 
Sayonara T 
Sextet T 
Shadey Grove (unfinished) T 
Sinister Satisfaction  T 
Slow and Easy T 
Sticky Fingers T 
White and Young T 

Lightning Crack  

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 5,068
Submitted By: Michael Z. on Aug 27, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]


Nice climbing up an erratic crack with lots of rests and a fine position.

P1 5.7 150 Start up Sam's Swan Song's broken corner but break left after about thirty feet. Follow lightning crack until it ends then look right for a bolted belay.


Maybe a couple of hundred feet north of Slow and Easy, Left of the Triple S Buttress.


Standard Rack, Bolt Anchors, Rap with two ropes.

Photos of Lightning Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Lightning Crack
BETA PHOTO: Lightning Crack
Rock Climbing Photo: it

Comments on Lightning Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By Kai Troester
From: Pepperell, MA
Sep 26, 2011

I've done this with a double set of BD camelots up to size #2 and a single #3. You'll have to run it out a bit, but the falls are clean.

It also dries quickly, except for the start, which can seep a bit. But even then there are enough dry holds to climb around the wet stuff.
By kevin neville
From: Somerville, MA
Jul 8, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Beautiful climbing with good stances. I'd strongly recommend you bring a #4 Camalot (it would take multiples, but one is sufficient if you walk it up between non-#4 pieces).
By Paul LaFontaine
From: hebron,nh
Jul 13, 2013

Did this route today. Great route. Route finding not an issue. I'm a cautious, new 5.7 leader. I brought a #4 Camalot. Could've used another one but with some large hexes and other gear sows up well. Two pins on the route as well which were as confidence inspiring as old pins on Cannon can be but were easy to back up.

Well worth the hike up. This, combined with first pitch of VMC, good 5.7 routes to get on if W-G ridge crowded.
By Russ Keane
Jul 10, 2017

Excellent climb! Very smooth and elegant. I liked it a lot. "Classic".

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About