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Poison Ivy Wall
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Afro Samurai T 
Itch (Sumac Variation Unknown), The T 
Lightning Bolt Crack aka The Sickle T 
Obscurity 5.11 T 
Poison Ivy? (Garden Salad) T 
Sumac T 
Twin Cracks aka Railroad Cracks T 

Lightning Bolt Crack aka The Sickle 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: ?
Season: summer, fall, spring
Page Views: 1,639
Submitted By: Bryan Gall on Mar 13, 2004  with updates from Pete F.

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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This crack is the obvious "lightning bolt" thin crack that trends left-to-right finishing in a vertical offwidth slot. Thin fingers, ring locks, and face moves traverse you up and right to a slot. Grunt up the slot, and cross a small slab to reach anchors in a roof above a large, triangular block. Watch your protection on the traverse. I've seen nuts blow out on a fall because of swing back left; thin cams work best. A direct line (5.10) is possible to the slot. Little protection exists for this option.

Per Jeremy Joseph: the crux is near the top when you find yourself in a deep, awkward crack. It is a very fun climb!

Eds. This is a combination of submissions put onto the 1st submission's page to reduce confusion and duplication within the database.


The Lightning Bolt Crack (another original name) is the third climb from the left on the Poison Ivy Wall.

The Poison Ivy Wall is located on the west side of No Name Creek approached by crossing the creek at the bridge and walking the utility road back downstream towards the obvious cliff band. Silver Doors cut into the cliff for Glenwood Springs' water diversion facility. Up and to the right of The Doors is the Poison Ivy Wall.

Per Jeremy Joseph: it is on the right side of the Poison Ivy Wall, directly to the right of the railroad tracks route.


A standard granite rack (lean towards the smaller stuff).

Per Jeremy Joseph: small to medium gear, maybe one big cam for the top.

Comments on Lightning Bolt Crack aka The Sickle Add Comment
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By Martin Harris
Sep 29, 2010

Great little route. It was super fun and had some pretty comitting moves on flaring locks. There were several moves that reminded me of the Northcutt variation in Eldo. I would not suggest leading this route unless you are good with small pro, and a set of hybrid Aliens are a must. I would also peg this at like 10b or c.
By Mike Bannister
Aug 22, 2013

Sustained, thin, quality climbing. I didn't need any offset cams, but the small nuts helped out tremendously. Engaging.
By Pete F.
From: Carbondale, CO
Sep 10, 2016
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Great route. Seems harder and with less straightforward gear than Lone Pine Direct, but you don't need any offset gear.
By D. Snyder
From: Golden, CO
Oct 31, 2016
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Damn fun, technical movement and gear. Offsets not needed, just small nuts and cams to #0.75 Camalot. I thought the flare up high was easier than the first 20'.

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