REI Community
The Island
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aah... Me Wrikey S 
Arrowhead S 
Balls? S 
Big Ben S 
Bitch With A Broomstick S 
Black Wall S 
Bobby and The Bosch S 
Brighton Rock T 
Bruce's Crack T 
Certain Damage S 
Community Service S 
Digital Jedi S 
Easy Ramp T 
Egyptian S 
Feelin' All Right S 
Free Time S 
Hole A Day S 
Horn of Plenty, The S 
Illegal Dihedral S 
In With The New S 
Jesus Loves You S 
Last Freedom S 
Light Tension S 
Mild Thing S 
Pea Green Limosine S 
Redhead S 
Rescue S 
Rub the Nub S 
Search S 
Silent Spaz S 
Spider Pig S 
Spring Cleaning S 
Squintch S 
Value Jet S 
Welcome to Billings S 
Wild Thing S 

Light Tension 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Richard Plummer, 1994
Page Views: 1,205
Submitted By: Mike Snyder on May 7, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Rope hanging on Light Tension (right of center).


Begin by climbing up to a ledge to attain the slabby dihedral. Up the dihedral to attain a downward sloping ledge on the right. Launch up the headwall to the left, following small edges at first then various crack systems. A long pitch that is pumpy towards the end.


20 feet right of Aah.. Me Wrikey and 40 feet left of Egyptian on the Tunnel Wall


10 clips

Comments on Light Tension Add Comment
Show which comments
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 7, 2010
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

good route! the first two clips are a bit spaced with awkward climbing, though a hand sized piece might be useful for the timid getting to the 2nd bolt. the second half makes up for it with awesome pumpy sequences through the headwall. the last move is strenuous if youre pumped and almost took my onsight away.
By Bryant hall
From: Cody, WY
Sep 8, 2013

Probably my favorite route the island. The right hand crimp through the crux at mid route is a great hold. and leads to fun exposure followed by great jug section. The slopper to finish keeps the business going at the end. Great route.
By Beau Skelton 1
Jun 19, 2016
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Stellar route. Must do if you're in the island. Moves feel like 10D/11A. Sustained bomber ledges all the way up, gets a little puppy at the top. We warmed up on this and I don't recommend it. (Lots of crimps). Suggest warming up tendons first. 11A
By Derrick
From: Bozeman
Jun 28, 2016
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

I was ROBBED spat off twice at the finish, what a route though. My favorite at the island.
edit: after sending a while back I think 11b is fair for the grade relative to other Cody routes, felt harder (and took way more tries) than la phroaig and in stitches

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About