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Light Sabre 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Vaino Kodas, Toivo Kodas, Tony Yaniro, 1981
Page Views: 3,945
Submitted By: Alan Nelson on Aug 12, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (82)
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Contemplating the crux on Light Sabre.


Light Sabre is one of the finest cracks for it's grade in Joshua Tree. It is long, sustained, continuous, and it will consume as much gear as you can throw at it. On the south side of Star Wars Rock are several right-slanting cracks. Light Sabre is the rightmost, with a small right-facing corner for the first half, a bulge, then a straight-in crack for the top. You can't walk by without being drawn in by its siren song. Expect a variety of jams, from locker fingers to off-hands, and a good solid pump.


Standard trad rack, with extras in the fingers/hands range; 2 bolt anchor/rap.

Photos of Light Sabre Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Weird Dave and friend.
Weird Dave and friend.
Rock Climbing Photo: If only it was longer...
If only it was longer...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike Morley perched to take a few photos on the ro...
Mike Morley perched to take a few photos on the ro...
Rock Climbing Photo: Robert MacKinnon pulls through the crux on Light S...
Robert MacKinnon pulls through the crux on Light S...

Comments on Light Sabre Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 5, 2015
By Steven Powers
Sep 7, 2003

this climb is a definatlly worth doing, the bottom section kicks ass.
By Mike Hack
Mar 1, 2004

The bottom stem/layback crack is very forgiving when it comes to gear selection. Fun section . . . imagine a full pitch! Crux is probably getting into or out of it. Good rest afterwards, and again also after the highstep/bulge section. Then easy jams to the top. Fun route!
By namascar
Nov 15, 2004
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Great route, that corner is awesome. It can be jammed, or chimney-ed. Both are equally fun. Exiting the corner is tricky. Then the boulder move up is the crux, I though.
By Adam Stackhouse
Oct 13, 2005
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Fun route with great pro. Good one for newbies to Jtree. Not really "long, sustained, continuous" but altogether satasfying. Cedric's is considerably harder to do and to protect, so don't let the Saber lull you into taking that one for granted.
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Nov 14, 2005
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Surprisingly physical climbing for a JTree 10b. The opening corner is awkward, but chimney moves allow hand free rests to place gear.The bulge crux above protects well, and presents its own awkward challenge as well.Then enjoyable hand jamming to the top.

I placed medium nuts and 1/2 to #2 Camalots (a few of each size might be useful). The bottom corner will take as many 0.5 to 0.75 camalots as you want to throw at it.

We climbed it on a sunny day in November in the mid 60s and baked - bit of a solar oven effect - so save it for cool or windy days.
By tony grice
Feb 13, 2006

super clean rock , grat fun , good gear. If you want to add some spice , start it from the pit. BAM!! some one should add another anchor for all the top-ropers.
By Russ Walling
Feb 18, 2007

Nice route, nice rock... kinda hot.... kinda awkward in a spot or two. This is the destination route for the formation for most parties. Sample some of the other routes while you are here, even if you TR them.
By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Feb 19, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

As of 2/18/07 the nuts on the anchor bolts are only only finger tight. If you're headed up there soon, do everyone a favor and take a wrench.
By armand rollice
From: rancho cucamonga
Feb 27, 2008

Fun climbing. Nice place to come to when it's cold. The crux for me is the move at the top. Takes good gear.
By Tradiban
Dec 27, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Solid three stars, the bottom corner is the crux, keep the feet our right and your back against the left wall, coming out of the rest looks hard but isn't...commit.

Anchor bolts were good.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Apr 20, 2014

Anchors are less than ideal. Both spinners on old SMC hangers and two very short chain-links. As Will suggested bring a wrench and tighten up. Better yet, they should be replaced and will go on such a list. In the meantime, please don't pull straight up while setting up to rap and be careful.
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Jan 5, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

the walk off took about 2 full minutes. which I discovered because others were on the 5.9, so I decided to not rap on the shared anchor.

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