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Light Saber 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
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Page Views: 453
Submitted By: Nathan Scherneck on Jan 26, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Photo by Stephen Lê

Description 

Start with a bouldery sequence and proceed up juggier holds with reachier moves.

Location 

On the right arete of the crag. Right of Greedo.

Protection 

4 bolts, 2-bolt anchor


Photos of Light Saber Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo by Billy Shin
Photo by Billy Shin
Rock Climbing Photo: Jorden starting this little beast.
Jorden starting this little beast.
Rock Climbing Photo: I decided too jump from the top. Really nice climb...
I decided too jump from the top. Really nice climb...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jorden starting this little beast.
Jorden starting this little beast.

Comments on Light Saber Add Comment
Show which comments
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Feb 5, 2014
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Gave this a go and it did not go that well. Opening moves before the first bolt are not real hard, but if the big flake you are honking on to clip the first bolt comes off, you'll be a mess. Moving past the first bolt features some really hard pulls and long reaches. Susan got much higher than me and found some long reaches and off balance moves on the barndoorish arete up high. The upper clips might be awkward.

We heard afterword that a hold or two has broken off and the route might need some reworking as to the bolt situation. Sounds good to me. I gave this a bomb, but it is better than that, and I would go .884 starts. If it gets fixed up, it could skyrocket all the way to 1.496 starts.

No way on Satans green earth this thing is 5.10c.

If you are top roping, there are anchors on top and there is a fairly easy way onto the top of the formation directly behind the routes.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Feb 6, 2014

I give it a star. Reaching and clipping the first bolt is safe enough, the flake in question is large and from my recollection solid on top and sounds a bit like a bell down low but you're not honking on it down low and I think it's attached enough up top to stay put for awhile. I levered off to unclip the draw with ease. Small crimps and cross through will reach a three finger pad kinda sharp liback, I'm fairly certain this is key. This is where things started to go bad. Beyond that the next series of moves are reachy and I felt the entire time like I was barn-dooring the the left. TR or not, it was disconcerting just the same. Multiple hangs, big high steps, hip in all sorts of tricks. Being stronger would definitely help as you choke up on the liback (getting better with every inch).

After hanging a few times I magically levitated the extra inch or so, I was pretty much over it at this point so grabbed the flake high where it's quite positive and continued progress to the summit. In my TR opinion, crux is getting beyond the 1st bolt & stable to clip the second. Falling would not be ideal with potential ground fall?
By Reed Ames
From: Hesperia, CA
Oct 8, 2015

Jay and I retro bolted this route last year. There is now 4 bolts and a new anchor. The grade is now maybe 11a/b.
By Rolf Rybak
From: BC
Feb 20, 2017

Really liked this route Reed, nice job on the rebolting. It's not neccessary to use the starting flake.

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