Light Deprivation Buttress Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: GPS listed is the Hershey Kiss Boulder.
You've cut away from work for a day to get in some volcanic sport climbing at Big Chief. All is good, the sun is shining, the birds are bumpin', the breeze is mellow, and the dirt road into the Chief parking area didn't even seem that long this time...
...Then you see it: a dozen or so cars jam the lot. You see visions of endless top ropes clogging the classics.
Have no fear, Light Deprivation Buttress is here! LDB is a small outcropping of similar Big Chief volcanic tuft. And as the name implies, shade can be found through much of the afternoon here, as most of the crag faces East, and there are trees abound. LDB can be a welcome reprieve from the relentless sun of the main Big Chief area. On our maiden voyage here as a team of three, we managed to tick 8 of the 9 climbs here, we could've done all of them, if the 9th wasn't .12c and we pulled harder. You will more than likely have the place to yourselves.
The area's anchors keep with the Big Chief 'mussy hook' system, which consists of chains and two large tow hooks that act as supremely beefy perma-biners. While it may be tempting to TR off of this insanely convenient configuration, help conserve the F.A.'s investment and only use them for rapping off when you are done, or if you must, lowering once after you are done with the climb.
To find the buttress, park at the standard Big Chief parking area, and begin following the standard Big Chief approach trail. About half-way into the approach, or about half a mile, the main trail bends right at a decent sized clearing of trees. Here, you may or may not spot a faint logging trail that heads left. Pictures are included for this junction, it can be easy to miss, maybe people have since added cairns here, but keep your eyes peeled. Once you find the trail, it becomes fairly established and clear for the rest of the way. It heads more or less in the same south/southwest direction for most of the way, and gains hardly any elevation. You will reach the cliffs on your right after about a mile of total hiking from the lot.
Climbing Season For the Big Chief area.
Weather station 3.5 miles from here
9 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Light Deprivation Buttress
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Light Deprivation Buttress
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Light Deprivation Buttress:
Unknown 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, 1 pitch
Infra-Red 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Una-Bomber 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Featured Route For Light Deprivation Buttress
Night Stalker 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c California
: Lake Tahoe
: ... : Light Deprivation Buttress
Not as sustained as Shadow Dancer, but the crux is a must do, and was the highlight of the crag for me. Night stalker is long, but most of the climbing is pretty mellow on good rock, until the excellent short/ steep headwall and crux on perfect rock. The exposure on this short boulder problem up high on the route is awesome, the rock is bulletproof, and very smooth for volcanic. A must do for the area....[more] Browse More Classics in California
BETA PHOTO: The clearing where you head to the left instead of...