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Light Deprivation Buttress

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Fade To Black S 
Funtastic S 
Infra-Red S 
Night Stalker S 
Shadow Dancer S 
Slap in the Dark S 
Sunny Side Up S 
Una-Bomber S 
Unknown S 

Light Deprivation Buttress Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 6,960'
Location: 39.24013, -120.19339 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 4,368
Administrators: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Tyson Waldron on May 23, 2014
Forecast:
You & This Area
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BETA PHOTO: GPS listed is the Hershey Kiss Boulder.

Description 

You've cut away from work for a day to get in some volcanic sport climbing at Big Chief. All is good, the sun is shining, the birds are bumpin', the breeze is mellow, and the dirt road into the Chief parking area didn't even seem that long this time...

...Then you see it: a dozen or so cars jam the lot. You see visions of endless top ropes clogging the classics.

Have no fear, Light Deprivation Buttress is here! LDB is a small outcropping of similar Big Chief volcanic tuft. And as the name implies, shade can be found through much of the afternoon here, as most of the crag faces East, and there are trees abound. LDB can be a welcome reprieve from the relentless sun of the main Big Chief area. On our maiden voyage here as a team of three, we managed to tick 8 of the 9 climbs here, we could've done all of them, if the 9th wasn't .12c and we pulled harder. You will more than likely have the place to yourselves.

The area's anchors keep with the Big Chief 'mussy hook' system, which consists of chains and two large tow hooks that act as supremely beefy perma-biners. While it may be tempting to TR off of this insanely convenient configuration, help conserve the F.A.'s investment and only use them for rapping off when you are done, or if you must, lowering once after you are done with the climb.

Getting There 

To find the buttress, park at the standard Big Chief parking area, and begin following the standard Big Chief approach trail. About half-way into the approach, or about half a mile, the main trail bends right at a decent sized clearing of trees. Here, you may or may not spot a faint logging trail that heads left. Pictures are included for this junction, it can be easy to miss, maybe people have since added cairns here, but keep your eyes peeled. Once you find the trail, it becomes fairly established and clear for the rest of the way. It heads more or less in the same south/southwest direction for most of the way, and gains hardly any elevation. You will reach the cliffs on your right after about a mile of total hiking from the lot.

Climbing Season

For the Big Chief area.

Weather station 3.5 miles from here

9 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',3],['5.10',2],['5.11',3],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Light Deprivation Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Light Deprivation Buttress:
Unknown   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch   
Infra-Red   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   
Sunny Side Up   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Una-Bomber   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Night Stalker   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Shadow Dancer   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Slap in the Dark   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Light Deprivation Buttress

Featured Route For Light Deprivation Buttress
Rock Climbing Photo: Anchors marked in photo.

Night Stalker 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  California : Lake Tahoe : ... : Light Deprivation Buttress
Not as sustained as Shadow Dancer, but the crux is a must do, and was the highlight of the crag for me. Night stalker is long, but most of the climbing is pretty mellow on good rock, until the excellent short/ steep headwall and crux on perfect rock. The exposure on this short boulder problem up high on the route is awesome, the rock is bulletproof, and very smooth for volcanic. A must do for the area....[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Photos of Light Deprivation Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The clearing where you head to the left instead of...
BETA PHOTO: The clearing where you head to the left instead of...

Comments on Light Deprivation Buttress Add Comment
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By Kim Harrison
Sep 2, 2017
This area was less crowded and had an easier approach than the main wall. Plenty of great routes with good shade.

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