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Light Days 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Rex Mammel/ Mike McGee
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,415
Submitted By: Rex Mammel on Apr 6, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (45)
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Clipping the draw on the roof. Credit to Joel All...


The face just right of Period Piece climbs up to pleasureable roof moves on big holds. This is surprisingly solid and has a nice position.


7 bolts to chains.

Photos of Light Days Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Wes on the roof of Light Days.
Wes on the roof of Light Days.
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By Rex Mammel
Apr 27, 2002

I tried to glue some of the holds using liquid nails stone and block adhesive. I don't know how successful this was so I would recommend that the belayer stand under the roof to avoid rockfall danger. I am also ammenable to upgrading the route to 11b if anyone can confirm. %:_)
By Anonymous Coward
Nov 26, 2002

I would say two 11b cruxes (by the second bolt and at the big roof.)
By Brandon Schirm
From: colorado springs, co
Apr 7, 2008

I think it was 11a. It's not that hard over the roof once you find the holds.
By Crag Dweller
From: New York, NY
Mar 7, 2010

Really nice route with enjoyable moves. There is a chunk of rock that will likely come off in the not too distant future that people may want to be aware of.

It's the block of stone that was, IMO, the most obvious left hand for the start and, based on rubber smear, is used a lot as a foot hold in the moves past the first bolt.

It's too low to be a danger for the belayer but, if it came off as someone was pulling onto the route it could lead to a surprising deck fall that would be short but could still do some damage.
By richard magill
Jun 20, 2011

Nice movement, good line.
By Aaron Furman
Apr 10, 2016
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13

I'd say this is a low grade, we all agreed that this was the "hardest" 11a we've all done at Shelf Rd., but then again. it was at the end of the day. and we were all on our 10th climb for the day.
By Joel Allen
From: La Crosse, WI
Mar 21, 2017

Hey Aaron, can I ask what you thought the PG-13 was on this route? It seemed pretty safe to me!

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