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Lift Kit 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: K3
Page Views: 1,395
Submitted By: Karl kelley on Nov 14, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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Photo by Beth Lim

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Starts with face climbing over 3 bolts, continue up a right-facing corner that starts with off-fingers and goes through the sizes up to steep cupped hands.

Location 

Approach by driving towards the Optimater Wall, but park at a small pull-out on the left. Follow an obvious flute to the cliff bottom and walk right until you see the plaque.

Protection 

Quick draws, .75 Camalots through 3 Camalots.
2 ring hanger anchors


Photos of Lift Kit Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo by Beth Lim
Photo by Beth Lim
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo by Beth Lim
Photo by Beth Lim
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting the steep hands, #3 friends, to the ancho...
Starting the steep hands, #3 friends, to the ancho...

Comments on Lift Kit Add Comment
Show which comments
By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
May 10, 2010
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

This route is pretty sweet but not quite a classic for two reasons. One, its a little loose and dirty but that would get better with more traffic. The second and bigger reason is that a key foot hold for starting the route and getting to the 2nd bolt is fractured and going to break off someday soon. I think this would make the route slightly harder, maybe 11+.
By Jeff Scheuerell
Nov 8, 2012
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

I loved this route. Great climbing and well protected. Was nice to have well placed bolts before the crack. I agree with Steven though, the few loose sections drop the quality down a notch and the loose foothold, although still there, has a short life span. I wish I had tried it on tr without using the foothold to see how hard it's gonna be. Don't hesitate to get on this route.
By Drew Thayer
From: Laramie, WY
Apr 6, 2013

Totally worth the walk! This will still be 5.11 when that foot breaks. Thanks to whoever spotted the line and took the initiative to bolt the start.
By DennisL
From: Bishop, CA
Oct 20, 2014

Fun, varied route! Still a little loose (one pretty dangerous flake on the left wall).
By Lyle Harte
From: Denver
Oct 31, 2016

My fat ass partner pulled several toaster sized blocks off by the second bolt. The rest of the climb is like a more varied incredible hand crack.
By Jamie Sarafan
From: Colorado
Mar 20, 2017

More specific gear (BD Camelot c4s) for those who are interested:
- 3 draws for bolted start
- 1 #.5
- 3 #.75
- 4 or 5 #1
- 5 or 6 #2
- 1 #3
I believe my partner and I accidentally broke a good chunk, but not all, of the initial foot ledge in question this last weekend (3/18/2017). When I climbed it after it broke, I managed to largely avoid the foot ledge in fear of doing more damage (in retrospect perhaps I should have cleaned it up for y'all) and it did not feel significantly harder because you have other crimps/ foot holds slightly higher and to the left of it that are quite solid - I would say it's still a 5.11. Super fun climb!

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