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Lifer 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Dylan Warren
Page Views: 874
Submitted By: claytown on Nov 9, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The book calls this a stellar route and I agree. Lots of #1 camalots. Go up a corner then make your way out the long left traverse roof. Just keep moving!

Location 

a ways right of Chest Full of Kind and Cups. Look for the corner to the roof that goes left. Slightly left of directly beneath the anchors is Scrunch.

Protection 

lots of #1s a couple of .75s, maybe a #4 for the start, and few #2 camalots.


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By Courtney Pace
From: Sandy
Jun 8, 2012

Pretty much #1 cams lots up the corner with a few .75s. Then some 2s for the roof and a #1 or 3 would fit in too. Lots of laybacking! The traverse is some of the best laybacking I've done. Much easier than layaway plan
By Karl kelley
Sep 4, 2014

This is a fantastic Dylan Warren route...
By Jeff Scheuerell
May 5, 2017

4 star climbing, 2 star rock quality. Did not take much to pull a 3' long x 6" section off midway up the corner. Glad I tested it on the way up and was able to avoid it for the most part. On the way down, on my 2nd lap after my belayer was in the clear, less than a laybacking pull got it to go. Other sections seemed dubious as well. Only bring 2s if you don't have enough 1s.

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