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Tanager Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Touch of Gray S 
Beam Me Up T 
Brightly Colored Males T,TR 
Golden Road T 
Lifelong Affliction T,TR 
Rough Cut T,S,TR 
Veracity T,TR 

Lifelong Affliction 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Welch, Savage 1987
Page Views: 687
Submitted By: Kevin Heckeler on Jul 11, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Description 

P1 5.8+ -- Climb the beginning of Brightly Colored Males. After 5 feet of corner climbing, move left towards a left rising crack and follow this to the top.

Location 

Same start as Brightly Colored Males

Protection 

Fixed anchor at top


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By crackatoa Spiesbach
From: Boulder,Co
Jul 13, 2015
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

This may be the hardest 5.8 route I've ever climbed. The climbing is delicate and burley. It's really a very interesting climb. Make sure you are carful with the first few moves into the crack the fall back into the corner could be pretty painful.

Do not under estimate this thing but do get on it!
By NESteve
From: Lake Placid, NY
Oct 7, 2015

Great pitch at least the falls are clean!
By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Oct 7, 2015

-- Beta alert -- if you try climbing this as a fingers/hands crack, jamming, it will feel impossible. The trick is to use the crack for your feet, under-clinging and side-pulling it with your hands. You basically walk the crack. It's still tough, but closer to the 5.8 grade than say 5.10
By Gunkiemike
Aug 10, 2016

Gotta disagree big time with Kevin on this.

CAUTION - beta follows.

I "walked into" the lower part of the crack as he suggests, and it was awkward, off-balance, and super reachy (nb - I have probably 6" less wingspan than him). Ended up moving leftwards to the crack in what could be be called an unexpected dynamic move. Plus, the gear for this, if you can get it, is placed blindly. The real gear is behind you in the corner and the fall backwards would be ugly. On the second lap, I used the lower crack for fingers and it was a bit of a grunt but super straightforward. The wider upper part of the crack was also very obvious, with great fingerlocks and jams, right foot stabbed in the crack at every move; I can't imagine trying to do that any other way. Felt like 5.6 at most.

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