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Lifeline T 

Lifeline 

YDS: 5.13 French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.13 French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Mattson
Season: full sun by noon?
Page Views: 420
Submitted By: t.schwartz on Dec 5, 2016

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My reputable vortex guide...Psyched!

Description 

This is an astonishing route that if found anywhere else would be the "it" route to do...Well maybe just the second pitch, a ridiculous overhanging splitter that seems too good to be true!

Pitch 1 (5.11+): Ramble a few feet up through the choss to a pedestal clip a bolt and proceed to do a classic Sedona "approach" pitch. (loose rock, choss, sand) The last 10 -15 feet after passing the last bolt are actually quite fun and thought provoking with better quality rock. This will place you on a nice ledge with what you came for looming above. One Star.

Pitch 2 (5.13): Crawl up into the obvious pod above and prepare for the never ending pump fest! The crack after the pod starts as thin hands and gradually tapers down through the sizes; #1s, .75s, .5s, .4s, .3s, and ends with two protection bolts. There is no really hard move just a lot of not so easy ones. The entire pitch is greatly varied with the sizes and angles, making it incredibly fun and interesting. The jams and locks are good but the overhanging nature makes you want to move fast and efficiently and the ending layback section is stimulating and keeps your head on a swivel. An intense 5 star pitch!

Descent 

Three bolt anchors
Single 60 should get you down

Protection 

Pitch 1:
A mixed bag; runners, .1 to #3?

Pitch 2:
4X #1s
3X .75s
1x .5
1x .4
1x .3
2x quickdraws


Photos of Lifeline Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Overhangs about 8-10 feet
BETA PHOTO: Overhangs about 8-10 feet

Comments on Lifeline Add Comment
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By t.schwartz
Dec 5, 2016

Enter the Vortex!
By J. Snyder
From: Flagstaff, Arizona
Dec 6, 2016

The finest. Released to the public though?! Better adjust the approach beta to send everyone through the vortex. I kid...

Historical fun Facts: According to Burcham when John found this line he was out wandering around on the ridge far to the west of the feature. When he looked up and saw the shield he knew that he had found the line of his life. Bold statement for a climber that had already climbed some of the finest lines in AZ. Originally the OG first pitch avoided the bolted section which was later added by Childs. Also the main line originally had less bolts and was only protected by a pin at the top. The bolts were added by Childs and a bonus bolt was added in that section. True local red point 'skips the last bolt''... as would say MS.
By t.schwartz
Dec 6, 2016

I think the video was the official release to the public, didn't know it was a secret. Great history on the first ascent and the route. I'll remember to skip the last bolt next time!
By J. Snyder
From: Flagstaff, Arizona
Dec 6, 2016

Very true. I didn't think that drones could handle The Magnetic Convergence?? I think Matt S was the one who suggested the anti-pump at the top, it's pretty much magic climbing up there. Should post the spray for AirMail too?

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