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Decadent Wall
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Abortions on Parade T 
Adolescent Homo T 
Bestiality T 
Big Easy, The T 
Carol's Crack T 
Dimples and Tits S 
Divine Decadence T 
Dykes on Harleys T 
FDC T 
Flesh for Fantasy T,S 
Impotence T,S 
Loafers T,TR 
Lowe Route T 
McKenzie's Crack T 
Nipples and Clits S 
Pluton Playground T 
Preteen Sex T 
Sex, Drugs and Rock & Roll S 
Sexual Dysfunction S 
Testosterone Test T 
Too Much Testosterone T 
Twilight T 

Sex, Drugs and Rock & Roll 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Boyle '88
Page Views: 3,125
Submitted By: Peter Gram on Aug 29, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (35)
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Britta grabbin' a lap on Life Without Sex

Description 

This route has an interesting bulge right at the first clip. The next 3 bolts or so cover easy ground to a final steep juggy wall.

Location 

This route is the line of bolts just left of Another Jay Goodwin Route.

Protection 

7 bolts, give or take. Fixed anchors at the top.


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By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Apr 30, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Not sure why the guidebook describes it as a line of minimal interest. Maybe the low angle easy slab that makes the second third of the route and breaks the continuity? Either way, the lower bulge is funky and powerful and the upper slab is thin and techy with a friction finish. The homemade hanger on the 3rd bolt is worth a look...
By Jesse James
From: Knoxville, TN
Sep 22, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Definitely some confusion in the guidebook. The route description for Sex, drugs, and Rock & Roll sounds much more suitable: "Bolts. Finishes up steep patina face."

The book says that these two bolted lines are located between the 5.8 on the left, and the 10c on the right, but I could only spot one line of bolts. I assumed that this route was "Sex, drugs, and rock & roll", and that "life without sex" was a mistake in the guidebook.
By dave bingham
Jul 20, 2015

This climb was switched with "Sex, Drugs, etc." in the 2009 edition of the City guide. The descriptions here are for "Sex, Drugs, etc.", not "Life without Sex".

The 5.8 crack/dike is Jay Goodwin's "Preteen Sex".

Sex, drugs,etc is clearly identified by it's upper patina headwall.
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Oct 29, 2016
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

this is the route with what I call the trailer hitch bolt as the 2nd or 3rd bolt after the fun roof move, and then 20' run-out on easy slab ( can get a .5 camalot mid way) then the crux comes up high with a sequency move either making it really hard or just hard. This also has the area rap station.
By applewood
From: Tonasket, WA
Apr 29, 2017
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Okay, so according to Dave's (the guidebook author) comment above - this MP page is for "Sex, Drugs and Rock & Roll" not "Life Without Sex" (in the '91 edition of Bingham's guide "Lw/oS" is shown as an 11 just to the left with no stars, and apparently no bolts).

Did "Sex Drugs and Rock and Roll" back in '93, and thought it a fun 2 star 5.10+ (crux near the top, between 5th and 6th bolts). Maybe this page's creator can just change the name of the route to help eliminate the confusion.
By Rob T
Aug 13, 2017

The right bolt on this anchor is getting loose. I tried to finger tighten it, but w the movement in the shaft, that may not be enough.
The rap hangers near the top of Adolescent Homo and the walk off are good alternatives.

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