Life Without Principle
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Moving left and up on easier ground to the 4th bol...
Begin at the southern end of a light brown crag adjacent to the highest and northern most crag. Climb in a left tending direction past the 3rd bolt until reaching a horizontal at the 6th bolt. Continue up and slightly right past three more bolts to the summit. You will be greeted by 10+ / 11- moves above each bolt enroute to the top. The most difficult moves occur between the 2nd and 3rd bolt.
The coarseness of the rock promotes astonishingly good friction if you trust smearing on the tiny protruding granules. Three or four stars out of five.
Quickdraws for nine bolts (3/8") and an optional #1 or #2 camalot between the 6th and 7th bolts. A two bolt anchor with rings is on top.
Oct 8, 2007
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
The initial bolts lie well to the left of the now natural line of climbing and require a bit of a stretch to clip. Given the nature of the rock, perhaps holds have "grained off" or I was not up to par on leading it directly past the bolts.
Continuously difficult climbing from start to finish. Well worth doing.