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Insomnia Canyon
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Denied Bail T 
Insomnia Spire - 25 to Life T 
Life Without Parole T 
Valhalla T 

Life Without Parole 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 500'
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: McCord, Harrison, Snyder,
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,995
Submitted By: Blake M on Nov 2, 2016

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Jeff Snyder on the 3rd pitch Photo : Blake McCord


Life Without Parole is a magical adventure up the south face of Insomnia spire, those who dream of this route never sleep again.

Pitch One
- 5.11
Climb slabby crack through wide boxes to ledge and bolted belay.

Pitch Two - V3+
Move belay left 40 ft. 2 bolts.

Pitch Three
- 5.12
Look up, yes, you get to climb that. Blast off the off belay ledge, following 3 bolts to the obvious splitter above. Jam your way to the anchor.

Pitch Four
- 5.11-
Climb magic hands to magic fists to magic offwidth to magic munge to magic anchor.

Pitch Five
- 5.10
Awkward thin hands to bolted OW. You are on a tower.

Pitch Six
- 5.11-
Boulder around to the north side, joining 25 to Life and quest to the summit (5.9+ PG-13).


Drive out woody mountain road to FS 778 follow this, taking rights at any forks to a primo overlook and campsite on the rim of the West Fork. From here blast down the ridge straight out of the parking lot. Follow this ridge down cutting left when needed. Right above the gully/drainage cut right following ledges right and zigzagging down some steps to continue down the ridge. After about 10 min you will reach an outcropping of magical red rainbow rock. Continue about 200ft and cut right into the far too gnar couloir. Ski down the brown pow avoiding dense vegetation and locus. When you join another drainage continue down another 100 yards and look for an escape ramp to your right. Follow this contouring into the canyon and join a slick rock slab. Head up canyon along the sidewalk cutting up into the veg when the sidewalk ends. Bushwack up to the base. The route starts on the east face.

Approach time:

3 Man Bobsled Record - 26:15

Approach time may vary. Consult the Approach Estimator™ chart below

Approach Estimator™ Chart
Base Time - 26 min - Add 15 min for each box checked*
X - Are you reading this?
X - Are you reading this on the approach?
X - First time doing this approach?
X - Is it dark?
X - Are you lost?
X - Did you forget your headlamp?
X - Did you get a flat tire?
  • boxes may be checked multiple times

Deproach - Reverse your steps, take your approach time and double it

CUZ CO© NEW ROUTE GUARANTEE - You will have fun or your money back, oh yeah, that's right, you didn't do anything, you're just climbing. Have Fun.


East/South Face of Insomnia Spire


Dbls .3-4
1x - 0 C3, 1 C3, New 5,6
7 draws/runners

Photos of Life Without Parole Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Splitter
Rock Climbing Photo: Z Harrison on the 3rd pitch  Photo -Blake McCord
Z Harrison on the 3rd pitch Photo -Blake McCord
Rock Climbing Photo: Z Harrison on the start of the 3rd pitch  Photo - ...
Z Harrison on the start of the 3rd pitch Photo - ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Approach map
BETA PHOTO: Approach map
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo
Rock Climbing Photo: View of the south side of the tower
BETA PHOTO: View of the south side of the tower

Comments on Life Without Parole Add Comment
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By Zach Harrison
Nov 2, 2016
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13

A trad lifers route, this big hairy adventure is one of the finest tower experiences in the region. While a bit uneven in quality throughout, nobody will argue that the 3rd pitch isn't fucking incredible. If you are guilty of adventure climbing then Life Without Parole is a sentence you wont mind serving.
By Kevin Kent
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Nov 3, 2016

Nice work guys, love the name. Such a sick tower! Looks like no one will ever do the original route again! The brown pow on the approach is accurate. Also having been there multiple times I'm still a little lost reading the approach beta. Good luck to everyone else trying to find their way to the base haha.
By Blake M
Nov 3, 2016

Added a map, hopefully, that will make it clearer.
By J. Snyder
From: Flagstaff, Arizona
Nov 20, 2016

Here is some approach beta. If you don't like spoilers don't watch, if you want good beta don't watch.

Kevin/Casey: I thought of you guys a bunch when I finally saw your approach from the tower. Good job. Looked to easily be the worse approach award of the year.
By Kevin Kent
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Nov 21, 2016

Jeff: yeah we built some character that day and possibly even learned a lesson or 2 on how not do do things. I mean look how psyched I was after. I think Casey has an even better picture.
By Matt Enlow
From: Wyoming
Apr 18, 2017

I'm laughing my ass off, that description is so money. Thanks guys.

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