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Life Without Parole
5.12 YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 3.8 from 5
votes
Routes in Insomnia Canyon
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Brook Trout, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Daedalus T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Denied Bail T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Enter Sandman T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Heir To The Throne T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Insomnia Spire - 25 to Life T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Jamaican Bobsled Team, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Life Without Parole T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Locus Pocus T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Moloch T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Reign of Sand T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Shenanigans T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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three evils T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b C2+ |
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Up Stream Trout, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Valhalla T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Wide Pride T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Zion Train T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 6 pitches |
| FA: | McCord, Harrison, Snyder, Cuzco.net |
| Page Views: | 5,983 total · 66/month |
| Shared By: | Blake M on Nov 2, 2016 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
Life Without Parole is a magical adventure up the south face of Insomnia spire, those who dream of this route never sleep again.
Pitch One - 5.11
Climb slabby crack through wide boxes to ledge and bolted belay.
Pitch Two - V3+
Move belay left 40 ft. 2 bolts.
Pitch Three - 5.12
Look up, yes, you get to climb that. Blast off the off belay ledge, following 3 bolts to the obvious splitter above. Jam your way to the anchor.
Pitch Four - 5.11-
Climb magic hands to magic fists to magic offwidth to magic munge to magic anchor.
Pitch Five - 5.10
Awkward thin hands to bolted OW. You are on a tower.
Pitch Six - 5.11-
Boulder around to the north side, joining 25 to Life and quest to the summit (5.9+ PG-13).
Approach:
Drive out woody mountain road to FS 778 follow this, taking rights at any forks to a primo overlook and campsite on the rim of the West Fork. From here blast down the ridge straight out of the parking lot. Follow this ridge down cutting left when needed. Right above the gully/drainage cut right following ledges right and zigzagging down some steps to continue down the ridge. After about 10 min you will reach an outcropping of magical red rainbow rock. Continue about 200ft and cut right into the far too gnar couloir. Ski down the brown pow avoiding dense vegetation and locus. When you join another drainage continue down another 100 yards and look for an escape ramp to your right. Follow this contouring into the canyon and join a slick rock slab. Head up canyon along the sidewalk cutting up into the veg when the sidewalk ends. Bushwack up to the base. The route starts on the east face.
Approach time:
3 Man Bobsled Record - 26:15
Approach time may vary. Consult the Approach Estimator™ chart below
Approach Estimator™ Chart
-------------------------
Base Time - 26 min - Add 15 min for each box checked*
-------------------------
X - Are you reading this?
X - Are you reading this on the approach?
X - First time doing this approach?
X - Is it dark?
X - Are you lost?
X - Did you forget your headlamp?
X - Did you get a flat tire?
-------------------------
Deproach - Reverse your steps, take your approach time and double it
CUZ CO© NEW ROUTE GUARANTEE - You will have fun or your money back, oh yeah, that's right, you didn't do anything, you're just climbing. Have Fun.
Pitch One - 5.11
Climb slabby crack through wide boxes to ledge and bolted belay.
Pitch Two - V3+
Move belay left 40 ft. 2 bolts.
Pitch Three - 5.12
Look up, yes, you get to climb that. Blast off the off belay ledge, following 3 bolts to the obvious splitter above. Jam your way to the anchor.
Pitch Four - 5.11-
Climb magic hands to magic fists to magic offwidth to magic munge to magic anchor.
Pitch Five - 5.10
Awkward thin hands to bolted OW. You are on a tower.
Pitch Six - 5.11-
Boulder around to the north side, joining 25 to Life and quest to the summit (5.9+ PG-13).
Approach:
Drive out woody mountain road to FS 778 follow this, taking rights at any forks to a primo overlook and campsite on the rim of the West Fork. From here blast down the ridge straight out of the parking lot. Follow this ridge down cutting left when needed. Right above the gully/drainage cut right following ledges right and zigzagging down some steps to continue down the ridge. After about 10 min you will reach an outcropping of magical red rainbow rock. Continue about 200ft and cut right into the far too gnar couloir. Ski down the brown pow avoiding dense vegetation and locus. When you join another drainage continue down another 100 yards and look for an escape ramp to your right. Follow this contouring into the canyon and join a slick rock slab. Head up canyon along the sidewalk cutting up into the veg when the sidewalk ends. Bushwack up to the base. The route starts on the east face.
Approach time:
3 Man Bobsled Record - 26:15
Approach time may vary. Consult the Approach Estimator™ chart below
Approach Estimator™ Chart
-------------------------
Base Time - 26 min - Add 15 min for each box checked*
-------------------------
X - Are you reading this?
X - Are you reading this on the approach?
X - First time doing this approach?
X - Is it dark?
X - Are you lost?
X - Did you forget your headlamp?
X - Did you get a flat tire?
-------------------------
- boxes may be checked multiple times
Deproach - Reverse your steps, take your approach time and double it
CUZ CO© NEW ROUTE GUARANTEE - You will have fun or your money back, oh yeah, that's right, you didn't do anything, you're just climbing. Have Fun.
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