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Life on the Mississippi 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a A3

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a A3 [details]
FA: Blake Wold, solo Sept. '16
Page Views: 110
Submitted By: Yosoymilk on Oct 9, 2016

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1st attempt

Description 

A surprisingly strenuous and involved pitch for its length. Bust a 5.9 mantle move off the deck to reach the first bolt. The Crux comes immediately after and involves thin, reachy, beaking with ground fall potential, heads up. Post crux, the climbing becomes safer but still strenuous. Watch for loose blocks near the end of the crack. Make a disgusting free move through moss and mud to surmount the overhang. anchor is the large cedar 25 ft up and right, don't slip. Or walk off past the tree.

Location 

The hairline crack running through the steepest part of the roof on the upper formation, climber's left, two bolts mark the start.

Protection 

3-4 #1 left cant tomahawks (crucial)
1 #2 straight tomahawk
1 each KB #1 #2 #3
1 each LA #1 #2
1 each lowe balls #1 #2
1 fixed brassie #3
2 bolts (placed by Ian G. before FA)

Tree anchor or walk off.


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By Jon Nelson
Administrator
From: Bellingham, WA
Oct 9, 2016

So, this is 5.9 A3? Or are there harder free moves?
By Yosoymilk
From: Bellingham
Oct 9, 2016

One free move to get off the ground to the first bolt, as the first bolt is 7.5' off the ground, so trivial I figured it would be more distracting than informative to preclude the aid rating with a free one. You could jump and reach it if motivated/tall, I am neither haha!
By Jon Nelson
Administrator
From: Bellingham, WA
Oct 10, 2016

Thanks. But I was also thinking about the rating for the free moves in the moss above. What are they rated (in their current state, not in a future cleaned state)?

About the first move, could a person of average height place a rock underneath to step on to reach the first bolt?
By Yosoymilk
From: Bellingham
Oct 10, 2016

Yes, you could definitely place a rock to reach the first bolt. The last move to get off the climb is actually not technically a free move as you are high stepping in your etriers whilst you mantle onto moss. If cleaned, you could probably hook off the climb. I'll throw a free rating on it.
By Jon Nelson
Administrator
From: Bellingham, WA
Oct 11, 2016

Thanks for clarifying things.

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