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Life in the Fast Lane 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bob Gaines / Dave Katz: March 1982
Season: Cool weather
Page Views: 867
Submitted By: john durr on Oct 26, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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The fun is just beginning


This route follows a prominent right slanting dike and makes for an excellent approach pitch to EBGB's. It is pretty worthwhile, but not very sustained. The bolts are in the right places and it is not too stressful for the follower.

Follow the dike up and right past 3 well spaced bolts with a tricky crux between the 2nd and 3rd. Easy climbing on poor quality rock up and right. Surmount a small block with a finger crack and continue up the upper half of the dike (5.10-) past one more bolt on better rock.


This route is down and right of EBGB's block and follows the most appealing of a couple of obvious right leaning dikes. It is in the sun from late morning on.


4 fat bolts, couple of fat stoppers and cams to 1/2" and a couple of long slings. Gear belay 1/2" to 1-1/2" cams (green and red Camelots). Down climb toward EBGB's is easy but exposed.

Photos of Life in the Fast Lane Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: One closer to 1,000!  Way to go Dave!
One closer to 1,000! Way to go Dave!
Rock Climbing Photo: Past the crux
Past the crux

Comments on Life in the Fast Lane Add Comment
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By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Nov 26, 2011

This is a really fun pitch on a neat feature, recommended. Doesn't get the traffic it deserves despite 2 stars in the Vogel guide, and that one is rather parsimonious with the stars! Probably the traversing nature of the route, both climbers need to be solid.

I believe this is just "Fast Lane" in my older Vogel guide. Good name, since it is the left dike.
By Mr. Stevens
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 21, 2016

This was a fun, and memorable route. I'm pretty short and ended up having to do a pretty terrifying rightward lunge to a jug with the 2nd bolt well below my feet. Exciting! The upper part is great, it's like walking the plank...

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