REI Community
Lower Buckhorn Wash
Select Route:
Flapjack Tower T 
Fools Paradise T 
Groovin' at the Beach T 
I'm Rick James, Bitch S 
James Tower AKA The Lightblub T 
Jamison Engineering T 
Life During Wartime 
Outhouse Tower - Mallory's Mountain Marmalade 
Short Stack T 
Soup Kitchen S 
Whale, The T 
Wisdom Tooth - Cryptogramic Forest T 

Life During Wartime 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c A3+ R

Type:  Aid, 3 pitches, 430', Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c A3+ R [details]
FA: Ben Folsom & Mark Owen Oct. 2002
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,688
Submitted By: Ben Folsom on Nov 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Mark Owen climbing fixed lines on pitch 1.


We climbed the first pitch of this route the weekend The US started bombing Kabul. We finished it a year later. The name is from a talking heads song and seemed appropriate. The route is on a buttress about a half mile north of the small wooden outhouse along the Buckhorn Wash road. The buttress is in back from the road and has a huge pillar with an unknown route to the left of the pillar. Our route starts left of that on a very overhanging wall with a steep corner system starting about 130' off the ground. Pitch 1 "this ain't no party" starts at A2 nailing past two bolts into A3 beaks past another bolt, then two bolts move right avoiding the loose flake above. Continue on hooks up and right to a three bolt hanging belay. Pitch 2 "this ain't no disco" climbs the main overhanging dihedral system on beaks to a bolt where I removed a TV sized block. Then continues on beaks to a break in the corner system. (The outside edge of the dihedral is very sharp. Possibly rope cutting in the event of a fall). Move left of a rivet and bolt to rejoin the corner system. Easier but still very steep nailing leads to a short rivet ladder and continues up cracks past another rivet to an A2 crack to reach a two bolt belay on a small ledge. There are many large loose flakes above the belay (don't touch them). Pitch two is almost 70 meters long. The final pitch climbs cracks on the exposed arete to the left of all the loose stuff A2. A 5.8 mantle reaches the summit. We belayed from a crack in a short cliffband about 15 feet from the rim. To descend walk across the top of the pillar buttress, then walk down slabs into a small slot canyon. Go down the slot until it opens up and becomes a large dryfall. Skirt the dryfall to the left and continue down loose talus back to your car.


15 beaks, 2 big peckers, 8 blades, 3 LA's, 3 1/2" angles, 4 5/8" angles, 1 1/4" sawed off angle. Stoppers, small to medium cams, 1 #4 camalot, a selection of hooks. 70 meter ropes.

Comments on Life During Wartime Add Comment
Show which comments
By greg t
From: Chevy, Silverado
Jun 3, 2017

Sounds rowdy! nice work.
The "unknown route left of the pillar" is a 2 pitch aid route "Disconnect". Put up in the late 90's by Bill Ohran.
I just established a free route that starts at the base of the pillar and links into Bill's aid route, then continues to the summit. "Crossroads" 11+

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About