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Lies and Deception 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 182
Submitted By: dmPete on Jun 15, 2015

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Trad crack, lower portion of Lies and Deception

Description 

A difficult opening move gives way to a relaxed, wide crack. Half way up the route, take a sit down rest, then launch into the bolted face climb. The first two thirds of this bolted section climb a fantastic line of crimps and jugs through a shallow overhang. Once you've pulled the lip, though, "Lies and Deception" earns its grade...and name...easily with a short but thin and technical finish on a surprisingly bald face. Enjoy the whip!

Stellar movement, satisfying holds, and great bolt placement make this route another fantastic Area 51 climb!

Location 

In Pod #1, just left of Alien Observer, in the right hand side of the hollow where the "Wormhole" crack line is. Look for a very low first bolt (probably clippable from your tip toes if you're tall).

Protection 

Cams protect the 5.9/10a crack for the first half of the route (up to 3"). Eight quick draws and bolted anchor (including the very low starting bolt).


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By dmPete
Jun 15, 2015

Incredibly fun route! Feels like the 11c-level version of its stellar neighbor to the right, "Alien Observer." The jugs in the roof are so satisfying, and the crimpy face climbing below is fantastic too! A great introduction to the grade!

The lower half can be nicely protected with .4", 1" and 2" BD cams.

I found the face following the last bolt to be a distinct crux...but finding the right hidden holds (as usual at Area 51) make all the difference. The last face isn't that bad once you find them!

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