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Dark Magic 
Left Crack TR 
Lieback T,TR 
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Lieback 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jim Erickson, 1973
Page Views: 1,924
Submitted By: Michael Komarnitsky on Jan 1, 2001

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Beautiful "winter" day at Practice Rock.

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  • Description 

    Start up the crack below the obvious huge flake. Crank on the lieback, and work as much friction with your feet as you can from the slick rock. Work around the corner, stand on the flake, and finish up.

    Protection 

    2 10 foot runners should work. For trad lead, bring your wide gear.


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    By Brad Schildt
    From: Boulder, CO
    Sep 3, 2002

    We've been rating this 5.10 for a long, long time, and after untold laps on all of the routes on Practice Rock think "Lieback" is definitely is harder than the route you call "Thin Crack" which is listed as 9+. Also, what is listed here as "Left Crack" is more like 5.8 than 5.9. I've been known to sandbag a bit, but I think more accurate ratings for Practive Rock routes left to right are 5.8, 5.9. 5.11, 5.10.
    By Scott
    Jun 20, 2004
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    This is a great introductory route to Boulder Canyon, as a top rope can be set up, and trad may also be used. Be careful not to get your rope stuck under the slab or it may tear/fray ... poor rope.
    By Kat A
    From: Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
    Aug 15, 2006

    This is a fun, pumpy route. Definitely not 5.9-. I agree with Brad on the 5.10 rating.
    By Joshua Myatt
    Sep 17, 2006
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    A great climb. Good climbers make it look easy, while the rest of us make it look like a grunt. 10a.
    By Top Rope Hero
    From: Was Estes Park, now homeless
    Apr 1, 2010
    rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

    Forget the "wide" gear.

    Start with a yellow Alien, pump up to a #3 Camalot in a fat slot, then stuff a #4 up there JUST BEFORE the flake gets superwide, then walk out that lieback around the corner, baby. It's pumptastic, but the friction-friendly feet are better than they look from the ground. And it's a hell'ave-a trip wondering out that far up and left above good gear. Great for head strength. Bring some finger cams for the 5.8 scrambling at the top out.

    As for me, I held and had to lower. Needed to psyche up hard before I could re-climb and send.

    And? This is pretty F'in pumpy for 10a. I'm usually one to grade DOWN (see "Left Crack), but this one I call it a solid 10b, even though the magic is short lived.

    Q: Anyone know why--in Boulder Canyon, of all places--there aren't anchors above these lines? The tree pendulum anchor is kinda nasty....
    By Jim Fox
    From: Westminster, CO
    Feb 8, 2015

    Definitely harder than Thin Crack or Left Crack. About as hard as Regular Route, IMO.

    I found the 1st 6-10 feet off the deck to be harder than the lieback, but that's just my opinion.

    Really fun route, at any rate.

    10b?

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