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Waterfall Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anti-Christ S 
Charlie Solo T,TR 
Clamydia S 
Cleotitis S 
Convulsions T 
Degeneration T,TR 
Degeneration Left T,TR 
Falls, The S 
Greeboo, The S 
Leading to Death T,TR 
Lieback Corner T,TR 
Oracle, The S 
Putrefaction S,TR 

Lieback Corner 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,131
Submitted By: Swansonbro on May 29, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (55)
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BETA PHOTO: Looking up Lieback Corner

Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. MORE INFO >>>


Really fun trad or top rope route. Difficuly not overwhelming for the novice leader despite moderately strenuous start. Route eats up medium to large pieces lower down with great lieback hands. Balancey footwork needed to top out.


Medium to large hexes or cams (1"-3") work nicely, as well as a few medium to large stoppers. Two bolt belay anchor at the top.

Photos of Lieback Corner Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Doug leading up Lieback Corner, well in command.  ...
Doug leading up Lieback Corner, well in command. ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Liza Butler, of Sausalito, on the super-fun liebac...
Liza Butler, of Sausalito, on the super-fun liebac...
Rock Climbing Photo: Doug Fields leading lower section.  Great crack fo...
Doug Fields leading lower section. Great crack fo...

Comments on Lieback Corner Add Comment
Show which comments
By Blitzo
Sep 12, 2006

It's OK.
By Constantine Krotcov
From: Santa Cruz, CA
Aug 27, 2009

Super loose up on top, if setting up TR move all the big rock or they will slide down.
By Brian Snider
From: NorCal
Jun 20, 2011

Fun route with a great 5.8 slab variation to the left off the same anchors.
By presto
From: Prescott, AZ
Mar 15, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Easy 5.7, maybe 5.6, but fun climbing. Two tricams and and two scld's were all i used. brown tricam and a sling around a feature at the top for an anchor that was actually in-line with the climb to belay a second. Bolts to the left are awkward and off route.

Great for beginners to practice placements
By Justin Johnsen
From: Nor Cal
Jan 14, 2013

Currently no two bolt anchor above this climb. Borrowing the anchor from Clamydia will risk a big pendulum from the top.

Build a good enough anchor using gear and trees directly back from the top of the climb.
By mauhler31
May 5, 2014

Is there a walkoff or rappel for this route?
By Daniel Wade
From: Oakland, CA.
May 26, 2014

There are anchors on top. The two bolt 10a finish variation (Degeneration) to the right is great.
By Tyler Conklin
From: Palo Alto, CA
Oct 12, 2015

Just to clarify, Daniel Wade (in the previous comment) is mixing up this route with 'Degeneration' which starts in a 5.6 dihedral and finishes either left (Easy) up a gully, or right up the two bolt slab face that makes it 10a Degeneration. So it is still unclear whether there are bolts on the top or not. This route is much farther to the left (If you are looking from the bottom of the falls) than Degeneration.
By Brian Carver
From: Boulder, Co
Nov 28, 2015

Climbed this yesterday. I felt comfortable placing only one piece (#4 C4). No bolts, but there is a bomber tree to anchor off of further back. If you are bringing up a group of beginners and want to build something more substantial there is another tree even further back for a second leg. Doing this required every last bit of my 80' static line. It's questionable whether the climb is even worth it at this point. Best used for the quick leader as a short warmup or a novice leader for practice.
By D Lo
Aug 4, 2017

Took a climber new to trad on this route on 7/4. He walked-in a gold DMM cam on the first placement. Couldn't retrieve it. If anyone could, please let me know. It has TD stamped on it. Thanks. Sentimental value.

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