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Lickety Split 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 280'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13 [details]
FA: Rink and Langmade
Season: Not summer
Page Views: 84
Submitted By: sean peters on Dec 9, 2015

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BETA PHOTO:

PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS! MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Multiple cruxes will be discovered while on the route. The first pitch has a solid crack with good gear and a difficult to enter chimney. The second pitch has a decent crack with alright rock and a few moderately difficult 5.9 moves...There is a two bolt belay off right at and obvious, solid ledge (about 100 feet). From belay a short, somewhat unprotected and difficult face climb leads to a two piton belay in a large chimney. Either stop here or continue another 50 feet to a single bolt belay higher up in the chimney.
We stopped at the piton belay due to time constraints but the remaining 50 feet to the single bolt "looked" easier and maybe a bit rotten.

Location 

The route is easily recognized by the bombay chimney(s) on the approach. Use the same approach as Spider Walk, Rink-Kudo or Hobgoblin Spire routes.

Protection 

Bolted belays. Lots of nuts and cams to #4. Double rope rappel from pitch three (off two pitons) and single rope rappel from top of pitch one (horrible, old bolts).


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