This is a new bolted route that may follow a previously trad line up under a roof, into a large offwidth/chimney, then up a finger crack to anchors. There are good jugs down low to the roof, the offwidth actually provides a good rest -- the crux is the finger crack at the top before the anchors.
The route is between Generation X
and Heaven is Waiting
. The wide crack above the small roof makes it easy to find. (See the photo of Mike on lead.)
This was newly bolted by someone, with nice spacing and protection on lead. There are about 9 bolts to two bolt anchors.
Emma pulls the overhang to enter the chimney.
The route on the left is Promise.
BETA PHOTO: Lick and a Promise anchors.
Mike under the small roof on Lick and a Promise.
BETA PHOTO: Mike leads Lick and a Promise.
Oct 13, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Great pro. The technical crux is near the top. The roof is a jug haul with a couple of nice hand jams; the chimney is interesting. Overall, an enjoyable route.