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Across from The Bihedral aka Cascade Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Californication S 
Crack Where the Sun Don't Shine (retrobolted as Stroke of Luck) S 
Dexter S 
Erika S 
Fire and Rain S 
Firestarter S 
Friends S 
Full Respect S 
Hustle T 
Lichenthrope aka Good Clean Fun T,TR 
Lightning Strike S 
Loyalty S 
Nurse Jackie S 
Quick Silver S 
Rain Check S 
Rain Delay S 
Respect T 
Reunion S 
Side Dish T 
Smallville S 
Spooked S 
Summer Nights S 
Thunderhead S 
Weeds S 

Lichenthrope aka Good Clean Fun 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 180'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R [details]
FA: Ed Ash? Kyle Copeland?
Page Views: 1,795
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Sep 2, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
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Ashley starting up Good Clean Fun.

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  • Description 

    Find a short, left-facing dihedral of easy difficulty. Head up. Climb a short right-facing dihedral. From here there are 2 options, straight over a little roof 5.10 R or traverse right 8 feet and back left above. Then angle up and right. You could join Crack Where the Sun Don't Shine (retrobolted as Stroke of Luck) finish or angle right across slabs (crux) with marginal protection until you are under a small overlap/roof. Traverse right and up and finally you are there. Hmmm. Not sure it's worth a star, but it was lead ground-up and made for a nice little adventure.

    Rap 180 feet from the tree or 3rd class+ down the right side of the buttress.

    In 2009, this line was effectively retrobolted with probably 4-5 lines crossing it and scattering a bunch of bolts that effectively make it no longer R rated and removed the adventure from this climb.

    Addendum: in late 10/09, we were informed that this line had been climbed ground up at least back in 1997 and was not named at that time. Ed Ash has also indicated he climbed all over this rock in the 1980s. So, this line has been climbed by multiple parties safely without bolts and the bolts diminish the adventure of the line.

    Protection 

    Aliens, wires, Friends to #2 1/2, 60m rope.


    Photos of Lichenthrope aka Good Clean Fun Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Finishing Good Clean Fun.
    Finishing Good Clean Fun.
    Rock Climbing Photo: This was back when bolts were not on the crag. It ...
    BETA PHOTO: This was back when bolts were not on the crag. It ...

    Comments on Lichenthrope aka Good Clean Fun Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Eric Klammer
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jul 11, 2013

    Finger crack variation is pretty fun! Bomber jams but not so much for feet, so a little tricky. Finger-sized gear there and a 0.5 and 0.75 higher up will sew it up. Or just clip the bolts anywhere from 2' to 4" away from the perfect crack....
    By jamandbees
    From: Boulder, Colorado
    Jul 14, 2013

    I followed on Good Crack Fun (the crack variation). I'm a little weaker on crack, but this one was pretty friendly with a couple of decent jams. Worth a look if you're just getting into crack climbing.

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