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Lichen Worms 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Mike Fischesser
Page Views: 3,128
Submitted By: Edward Medina on May 19, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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Sandy preps for rappel from anchors of Lichen Worm...

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


Pull over a small roof right at the start, then scramble up a featured face passing one bolt to a ledge. Climb the short left facing dihedral then zip on up the face to a two bolt anchor. The bolts are a little spaced out, but the climbing is never scary. Bring some small cams to eliminate run-outs.


A low roof extends for a good bit on the far right end of the crag. Start at the left end of this feature.


Mixed. Approx. 7-8 bolts. Full length rappell. Watch your ends! Skinny people may not be able to get enough stretch to reach the ground.

Photos of Lichen Worms Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down from the Anchors of Lichen Worms
Looking down from the Anchors of Lichen Worms
Rock Climbing Photo: The distinctive shallow corner feature on the righ...
The distinctive shallow corner feature on the righ...

Comments on Lichen Worms Add Comment
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By brazinski
Nov 19, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

youll need a 70m rope to to a rappel with only one rope
By chris mcguigan
From: belmont, nc
Mar 24, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Great climbing and positioning overlooking a south western shot of the gorge. If you have a 60 make sure the second ties in before lowering the leader. Knot Your ends when rapping.
By Tyler Smith 2
Dec 2, 2015

Does anybody know what kind of gear this line takes? It says it's mixed, but also says it has 7-8 bolts.
By Drew Hayes
From: Charlotte, NC
Dec 3, 2015

I think I used one small cam between bolts one and two, and then for the long runout between 3 and 4 (I think this was the spot? maybe between 4 and 5) there's a flaring horizontal left of the line that takes a brown tricam (sling it long). Maybe one more small cam somewhere in there too.

If this grade is under your limit, the runout climbing is not hard at all and you can do it with just draws if you're willing to accept those risks. If you fuck up though, it would not be good.
By Matt Westlake
From: Durham, NC
Dec 3, 2015

I don't remember what I used on this route precisely but the whole day I had a single rack of master cams tiny up to the red and that was enough selection to cover the options for most of the moderate routes in this area without weighing me down. I don't think you need anything bigger than a red C4/#1 unless you are tackling the roofs/2nd pitches on these, it's mostly just narrow horizontals.
By Anne McLaughlin
From: Raleigh, North Carolina
Apr 30, 2016

I'm not super light, but I'm not heavy either. Got down just fine with a 60m rappel with knots tied in the ends.
By Benandstuff
From: Winston-Salem, NC
Jul 29, 2017

A very nice line. Just pure fun. The second bolt is a little awkward to reach up to clip, with a run out up to it. There is a run out between bolts 3 and 4 but the climbing is easier than 5.8.

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