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Mushroom Massif
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Cold Water Drama T 
Easy Street T,S 
Freewheelin' T,S 
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Granitude T,S 
Lichen Psilocybin T,S 
Locked and Loaded T 
Mongoose T,S 
Mushroom, The S 
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Unknown T 

Lichen Psilocybin 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 105'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Rob 'The Rock' DeZonia
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 101
Submitted By: half-pad-mini-jug on May 29, 2009

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This is what Lichen Psilocybin looks like...

Description 

This route is located on the left side of the formation on the buttress in front of the corridors. This fun route starts on the right side of a small roof at the base and trends leftward towards the dihedral and the large crack at the top of the formation.

Start off with dicey moves on the edge of the roof, clip 2 bolts and make a leftward traverse with supplemental gear to the dihedral. Once in the dihedral, clip 8 more bolts with some technical stemming up the bright green lichen face. Clip your last bolt and head into the final crack up slightly overhanging rock using supplemental gear to a 2-bolt anchor. There are multiple cruxes at the start, in the dihedral, and exiting the final crack. This has quality movement on varied quality rock, the space between the 2nd and 3rd bolt is easy climbing on not-so-good rock, but after the 3rd bolt, the rock is good to the anchors. This is fun climbing, good job, Rob.

Location 

This is on the lefthand buttress of the Massif (see the photo).

Protection 

10 bolts, small to fist-sized cams for the cracks, 2-bolt anchor. This is a long route, but we were able to do it with a 60m rope.


Photos of Lichen Psilocybin Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Rob lichen it on the FA.
Rob lichen it on the FA.
Rock Climbing Photo: Rob lichen it some more.
Rob lichen it some more.
Rock Climbing Photo: Lichen Psilocybin.
BETA PHOTO: Lichen Psilocybin.

Comments on Lichen Psilocybin Add Comment
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By Rob DeZonia
Sep 1, 2009

This route has some grainy rock typical to the Mushroom Massif. The opening power crux has some awesome crystal like jugs to mantle off, followed by a delicated foot traverse to the crack and a stance. The corner is pretty sustained 5.10 that climbs like a face. I love the steep 10- hand crack at the top that widens to ow through a bulge right before the anchor. It's smooth rock in the crack, so I didn't need tape. For the Massif, it's one of a kind!

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