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Lichen or Not 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Chris Chesnutt and Randy Lane, 1987
Page Views: 101
Submitted By: Chuck Parks on Jul 27, 2015

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Description 

We were a little confused as to where to start this one. There are two cracks splitting the bulging wall at the start. I'll provide directions for both.

P1-the easy way: Take the right crack, which leads up to a substantial tree about 30 feet up. This is the same start as Northwest Conversion. When you get in the neighborhood of the tree, start angling left and up. There's a pine tree underneath the arete that marks the left end of the upper headwall. That's generally where you're headed. (60 feet, 5.6)

P1-the hard way: Take the left crack. Struggle through the bulge on disappointing holds. Once things ease off, continue up and slightly left toward the pine tree mentioned in the "easy way" description above. (50 feet, 5.10)

P2-the main event: Start off a big block/ledge, maybe 20 feet right of the pine tree. Monkey your way up and slightly right through a series of overhangs. Surmounting the last overhang deposits you on a flat, vertical white face sprinkled with lichen. A hand crack almost immediately closes down to a finger crack that drifts in and out of existence as it works its way up the face. Fight the urge to chicken out to the Northwest Conversion crack 15 feet to your right. 25 feet of technical and sustained climbing leads you up the face. Finish on easier ground through a large flared crack loaded with dinner plate jugs, about 10 feet left of the Northwest Conversion anchors. (70 feet, 5.10)

Location 

On the Northwest Buttress, a little ways climber's left from the Silent Runner area. Look for a wall that starts off with a bulging overhang off the trail, then rounds over after about 20ft to low angle stuff. There's a noticeable tree growing out of the wall about 30 feet up. Up higher, things steepen into a beautiful white headwall.

This route eventually takes you up the left end of the higher headwall.

Protection 

Standard rack will do fine. This thing takes stoppers like they're going out of style.

The route tops out maybe 8 feet or so left of the bolted anchors for Northwest Conversion. From those anchors, a single rappel with a 60m rope will just reach the ground.


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