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The Far Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
18NY (aka The Chickens are Breastless) T,S 
5.8 TR 
At Last S 
Atlas S 
Atlas Shrugged S 
Baby Atlas (aka The Chickens are Restless) S 
Better Eat Your Wheaties T,S 
Boneless Chicken Ranch T 
Bushy Crack T 
Cereal Killer S 
Chief, The S,TR 
Continental Drift Whiplash T 
Death to the Right T 
Far aka Let's Climb Naked S 
Far Out S 
Far Side Chimney T 
Farther S 
Farthing, The T 
Feelin' Your Oats T 
Forrester's Crack T 
Hummingbird Spire, N. Face T 
Initiation Rite T 
Ivory Coast S,TR 
Jardinero S 
Koka T 
Kola S 
Lichen It T 
Livin' on a Prayer S 
Mystery Hole S,TR 
Near Side Chimney T 
New Tradition S,TR 
Old Spice T 
Old Tradition T 
Pile, The T 
Planet of the Grapes T 
Rite of Passage T 
Saviour Heart T,S 
Scorpio Rising  S 
Separation Anxiety S,TR 
Seymour Frishberg T 
Shute-Mills Route S 
Something Good S,TR 
Spellcaster S 
Step To The Left T,S 
Synchronicity S 
Tradfest T 
War Party S,TR 

Lichen It 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Chris Summit
Page Views: 936
Submitted By: Jerry Dodrill on Jan 2, 2014

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Splitclimber climbing "Lichen It", a 5.8...


This is a long overlooked gem of a trad route at the Far Side. The first known ascent was by Chris Summit and was one of the earliest of the many new routes he has since established in the Bay Area and across California. Listed as a dirty 5.8 crack in his Wine Country Rocks book, it was destined for obscurity. Recently it was scrubbed and rediscovered as an excellent adventure in a stunning Far Side setting that will continue to get better with additional traffic.


On the lowest, farthest west formation of the FarSide, the route is just around the corner, Left of Seymore Frishberg and Boneless Chicken Ranch. Start from the ledge. Climb up gray rock into the corner, placing cams in pockets. Pull a bulge to easy terrain then climb up into a steepening dihedral. Stem between pocketed faces and plug cams in the crack for protection. Walk up and off to the left to get back to the base.


A single set of cams should suffice, from fingers to #2 Camalot. I put a #5 into a huge pocket for a first piece, but a smaller piece may work as well. Save a few pieces for a gear anchor on the ledge at top. Belay from above or use long slings to top rope. There are no bolts on the route.

Photos of Lichen It Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: 5 star belay ledge
BETA PHOTO: 5 star belay ledge
Rock Climbing Photo: Splitclimber starting up "Lichen It", a ...
BETA PHOTO: Splitclimber starting up "Lichen It", a ...

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By Floyd Hayes
May 5, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Too bad it has an easy section between the lower 5.6 and upper 5.7 section. Cracks under a big block at the top provide an obvious belay anchor, but it's safer using a more solid crack above it. There is now a double-bolt rappel anchor higher up.

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