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Lichen Dike 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Tim Gotwols 1980
Page Views: 89
Submitted By: lee hansche on Sep 21, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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You may have noticed that all the really "bad" routes at Rumney have been entered by me. Well I happen to like "bad" routes. I guess I look for the best in every route. This one was good for a laugh due to the copious amounts of lichen (as the name implies) raining down in my eyes and showering my belayer. I found the second pitch to be really fun with less lichen.

Pitch one: Climb the poorly protected lichen coated dike to a nice ledge where you can belay or link it up with pitch two. Although I found this pitch to be funny it would be quite serious if it was anywhere near your limit difficulty wise.

Pitch 2: Follow a crack up the corner to the top. I liked this short pitch a lot.


On the right side of Triple Corners look for the dirty dike left of most of the sport routes.


First pitch takes almost nothing for gear. Pitch 2 protects well with a regular rack.

Rap off to the ground.

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By M Sprague
From: New England
Jul 13, 2011

I always wanted to retro this route to a bit more protected mixed route, maybe sport the first pitch and trad the second plus bolted anchors. I'm pretty sure Tim gave me carte blanche to retro his routes at Rumney years ago, but I'll have to check with him again. I'm getting the bug to get back to Rumney again after being away and at outback cliffs too long. I might need something this grade to start back up, lol
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 13, 2011

i think this would be a good one to bolt... i thought it was fun but doubt anyone has done it since me (10 years ago or whatever haha)... i wonder if it would stay clean though, i guess traffic would do that though and more beginners are heading out to the farther crags these days...
By Jeffrey.LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Jul 13, 2011

Does this lead up to the finger crack above from the bigger ledge? I feel like Brady Libby had something hard (waiting to be done?) somewhere up there?
By M Sprague
From: New England
Jul 14, 2011

If it was cleaned and bolted I think people would be all over it. What nice easy route at Rumney isn't?
By Eric Leclerc
From: Montreal
Aug 11, 2014

Bolting the first pitch would be great. I sent my partner on this one this past weekend and even being a 13b climber, he didn't like having no pros for almost 40 feet. Most of the holds had fractures and any of them could have break. The lichen was not a big issue. If the first pitch was bolted, people would go on it. There are line-ups now at Rack for Sale. This would give options. It would also give an opportunity to the climbers of this grade to do the second pitch in trad. An anchor would help.

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