REI Community
Springer Gulch Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bill and Britt One S 
Bill and Britt Two S 
Kokopelli S 
Lichen Cleavage S 
McLaughling  S 
Schmaussers S 
Sunkist S 
Surfing With The Alien S 
Unknown S 

Lichen Cleavage 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Glenn & Judy Schuler, early '90s
Page Views: 638
Submitted By: Rich F. on May 27, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Location of Cleavage on Springer Gulch Wall.

Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a pretty straightforward climb with a definite crux at about the 3rd bolt. I thought the crux was tough and only was able to do it because I was tall enough (5' 10") to reach a good hold after edging up a couple feet on a couple of crimps and thin feet. However, my daughter (5'5") climbed the route with ease -- but she's a much better climber than me :-)

Location 

This is on the right side of the wavy slab next to Sunkist.

Protection 

5 or 6 bolts to a two-bolt anchor.


Photos of Lichen Cleavage Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Sunkist on the left and Cleavage on the right.
Sunkist on the left and Cleavage on the right.

Comments on Lichen Cleavage Add Comment
Show which comments
By Glenn Schuler
From: Monument, Co.
May 29, 2011

FA: Glenn & Judy Schuler, early '90s. We called it Lichen the Cleavage. That's what you get when you send your wife up the route in a sports bra with a wire brush to clean on a hot day!
By Rich F.
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jun 4, 2011

Nice story behind the name, Glenn -- thanks for putting up the fun routes!
By Rob Davies UK
From: Cheshire, UK
Oct 16, 2013
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

In a 3 week trip to Colorado this year, the hardest move I met was by bolt #4 on this route ("5.8"!!) - even with a rope above me, I fell off a couple of times before managing the teetery step-up and lunge to get the good hold above the crux. In UK technical grades, it's probably worth 6a or F6c.
By a Ball
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 29, 2014

I won't suggest a grade, because I haven't been climbing long enough to really know what's what, but damn, this was the hardest 5.8 I've ever been on. It felt harder than the first pitch of People's Choice in Clear Creek to me.

Also, bring up some nuts to eliminate the runout between bolts 2 and 3. I left them on the ground, but the climbing was easy enough.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About