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Springer Gulch Wall
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Bill and Britt One S 
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Lichen Cleavage 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Glenn & Judy Schuler, early '90s
Page Views: 649
Submitted By: Rich F. on May 27, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: Location of Cleavage on Springer Gulch Wall.

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This is a pretty straightforward climb with a definite crux at about the 3rd bolt. I thought the crux was tough and only was able to do it because I was tall enough (5' 10") to reach a good hold after edging up a couple feet on a couple of crimps and thin feet. However, my daughter (5'5") climbed the route with ease -- but she's a much better climber than me :-)


This is on the right side of the wavy slab next to Sunkist.


5 or 6 bolts to a two-bolt anchor.

Photos of Lichen Cleavage Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Sunkist on the left and Cleavage on the right.
Sunkist on the left and Cleavage on the right.

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By Glenn Schuler
From: Monument, Co.
May 29, 2011

FA: Glenn & Judy Schuler, early '90s. We called it Lichen the Cleavage. That's what you get when you send your wife up the route in a sports bra with a wire brush to clean on a hot day!
By Rich F.
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jun 4, 2011

Nice story behind the name, Glenn -- thanks for putting up the fun routes!
By Rob Davies UK
From: Cheshire, UK
Oct 16, 2013
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

In a 3 week trip to Colorado this year, the hardest move I met was by bolt #4 on this route ("5.8"!!) - even with a rope above me, I fell off a couple of times before managing the teetery step-up and lunge to get the good hold above the crux. In UK technical grades, it's probably worth 6a or F6c.
By a Ball
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 29, 2014

I won't suggest a grade, because I haven't been climbing long enough to really know what's what, but damn, this was the hardest 5.8 I've ever been on. It felt harder than the first pitch of People's Choice in Clear Creek to me.

Also, bring up some nuts to eliminate the runout between bolts 2 and 3. I left them on the ground, but the climbing was easy enough.

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