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License To Bolt 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Brooke Sandahl & Jeff Ellington 4/87
Page Views: 2,090
Submitted By: Bryson Slothower on Mar 7, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (59)
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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


This vicious little route hits you with a low crux but stays on you till the anchor.
The rock is sharp but the moves excellent. It may be a bit easier for tall people.


just left of Phoenix



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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 21, 2017
By C Miller
From: CA
Mar 7, 2006
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

A good climb that was originally known as "JBGHSL" when done as a TR. The name stems back to the friction between the old Tradionalists and the "new wave" Tricksters; if you don't know what the acronym stands for ask around and I'm sure you'll find out.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Jun 9, 2008

I am 5'6" tall and climb 5.11 regularly and I couldn't do the move so I would agree that it might be easier if you are tall. It could be a long humbling week if height is not a valid excuse.
By Ben2
From: Bend, OR
Jun 15, 2008

I'm 5'4" or so and just got back on the route today. Though I didn't redpoint it, the moves seemed easier than before, and not quite so "reachy". Thought I'd post this in case any other shorties out there were getting nervous!
By Ian G.
From: PDX, OR
Apr 25, 2009
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

I thought this route was very difficult for .11b (compared to say vomit launch). Got shut down by the lower crux. The climbing on the upper part of the route is great and on some unique stone.
By Caleb Phillips
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 26, 2009

Hardest 11 I've ever been on. In terms of other 11b climbs, it's way harder than Cool Ranch Flavor (on Morning Glory), and is harder than Embryonic (rated 11d, on Student Wall). Maybe I am too short (I'm 5'10") or was just stupid, but the lower crux felt solid 11d or harder to me.
By Monomaniac
From: Morrison, CO
Jul 27, 2009

Welcome to Smith! Its not you, this just happens to be one of the classic Smith sandbags. Not a good choice for a warm day.
By cerickson
From: Portland, OR
Aug 30, 2010

I'm 6'2 and thought the low crux on this route was brutal. Very hard for 11b, the middle and upper parts of the route are awesome!
By richard magill
Jun 22, 2012

great route,lots of fun movement. move down low is definitely the hardest move by far. would probably be rated 12a if it were in Colorado...
By another Chad
Nov 2, 2014
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Interesting climb. The challenge of the crux drew me in. Reaching the two finger pocket is a full extension deadpoint for me (at 5'9" tall). And then what the hell do you do with your feet?! It took some experimenting and swearing. Thanks for the patient belays!

Hardest 5.11c I've ever done.

By MilesC
Sep 8, 2015
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

The reach is horrible and sandbagged, but afterwards this eases into a very fun bunch of 5.11 moves on excellent rock.
By Kevin MP
From: Redmond, OR
Sep 10, 2016
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

Definitely hard, especially with all the chalked up nothings around the second bolt; identifying the right holds was the crux(beta: use the right hand pinch with the dimple/pocket to make a big reach to the jug pocket). At 6'2" I was not maxed out but a little stretched making the move; there are higher options for feet but they aren't as good and I could see it being harder for shorter folks. The rest of the climb is awesome, great rock!
By Franck Vee
Jul 11, 2017
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Perhaps my finger tips are a little messed up already from other crimps at Smiths, but.... SHARP. Working out the crux a couple times was a most unpleasant experience!

That being said, nice moves. IMO this is a bit of a 1 sequence wonder - the crux is really hard. I would say that appart for the crux, the rest is probably 2-3 letter grades below (regardless of whether you call it 11b or 12a). I found it a little, but not much more, easier than the crux of Ring of Fire (11d). And Ring is much more sustained, it's not just about the crux. This one, once you can do the crux, it's an easy redpoint IMO.

Beta: for me the beta was to move feet into increasingly vanishingly small footholds, until I could lock-off the right on a crimp and deadpoint the pocket with the left. Then you still have not feet for the clip but at least you have a bomber pocket to clip with. Tricky, precise and very fun sequence (though painful).
By Barb Clemes
Oct 10, 2017

This is fun to read - I did this route as my first 11 plus in the late 80’s when working routes was pretty new to the scene - ps I’m 5’2
By phylp
From: Upland
1 hour ago

Interesting to read all the comments about height. Like Barb, I'm on the shorter side at 5'4". Did this in the 90s with one fall which took me almost to the ground and brought my lighter partner up off the ground. Got it second time but had a desperate clip from pump at the top. "Tricky" is what I wrote in my book. At the time I thought it was 11c/d.

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