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Libre Negra (Black Book) 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Kraus 1938
Page Views: 65
Submitted By: Gunkswest on Dec 26, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: The approximate line of Libre Negra (Black Book) i...

Description 

This route starts about 150 feet to the left of the Madonna, at a narrow buttress with an obvious fist crack that is clearly visible from the railroad tracks. There is an open, grassy are directly in front of this buttress.

This route is supposedly the first rock climb done in Colombia (1938), by a Swiss guide named Kraus. The guidebook lists this as 5.6.

P1: Climb the fist crack (larger cams needed) or the steep buttress just right (a little spooky) to a ledge. Continue up to another ledge and a large block (there is a glue-in staple in this block that you'll see people TRing from). Step right, climb an easy chimney formed by the block with the staple to its top. Continue up to a ledge at the base of the black corner.

P2: Climb the black corner (crux, think about Kraus leading this in mountain boots, trailing a hemp rope in 1938), then continue up another corner and obvious features to the top.

The climb can easily be in more pitches if you wish to stay closer to your follower.

Location 

This route starts about 150 feet to the left of the Madonna, at a narrow buttress with an obvious fist crack that is clearly visible from the railroad tracks.

To descend, walk along the top of the cliff toward town. Drop down an obvious gully on a path, which will deposit you on the tracks between the railroad cut and Zona el Riel.

Protection 

Carry gear to at least a blue Camalot and numerous shoulder-length slings.


Photos of Libre Negra (Black Book) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Libre Negra start (the red arrow) as viewed from t...
BETA PHOTO: Libre Negra start (the red arrow) as viewed from t...
Rock Climbing Photo: The buttress containing the Black Book (marked by ...
BETA PHOTO: The buttress containing the Black Book (marked by ...

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