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Liberty Crack 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Colby Wayment (7/04/06)
Season: Whenever
Page Views: 495
Submitted By: Colby Wayment on Dec 9, 2010

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The lip of the liberty crack roof jutting out near...

Description 

The small roof crack on the cover of, and listed as an oddball project in, the Dave Robb guide. It's kind of a weaker, Ogden quartzite version of the Coffin Roof in Little Cottonwood Canyon. Basically, it's a boulder problem 60 feet off of the deck.

This is located on what Robb calls the SR-71 part of the Nature Center Wall. The roof is not that obvious until you're up close, or just know where to look. But once you are standing at the base of the descent gully which splits the SR-71 wall (and the only really gully to split the whole nature center wall) you can gaze the roof above you on the right wall of the gully.

Pitch 1: Really just a scramble approach. I don't think a rope or climbing shoes are required to get up to the base of the 10 foot dihedral that guards passage to the roof. ~40 feet. Build a belay with some larger hand sized cams.

Pitch 2: Begin up the 5.9ish (it's been a few years since I climbed it) dihedral. There will be a small awkward perch at the base of the roof atop this. Here you can stuff in a few finger sized cams and try (strenuously) to stretch out and gander at the moves. Step 2 of this: Pull hard some finger locks and edges. After surmounting the roof and making a few easy moves to the top of the wall. Down climb and down aid - No anchor - back to the belay atop pitch 1.

Protection 

For pitch two. A hand ful of finger sized cams and nuts. A .75 (green) camalot to place above the roof and whatever cams the dihedral takes. Remember some larger cams up to #3 camalot for the Pitch 1 belay.


Photos of Liberty Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: much steeper than it appears... liberty crack is t...
much steeper than it appears... liberty crack is t...

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By Neil Johnson
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Sep 21, 2015

The approach to the Nature Center wall sucks, but the route is easy to find using Colby's description. There is a pretty stout tree at the top with a lot of manky slings around it to rap from. A 60m rope DOES NOT make it to the ground, but there is a small landing maybe 8' off the deck you can land on and pull the rope, from there it's an easy down-climb. There is a large chockstone below the 5.9 dihedral that is about ready to go, tread lightly if you like your belayer.

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