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Liberty Bell
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Liberty Crack T 
Liberty Crack Free T 
Live Free or Die!™ T 
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Liberty Crack Free 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 12 pitches, 1200', Grade V
Original:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
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Submitted By: Nathan Hadley on Sep 3, 2017

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Description 

Liberty Crack was originally freed by Brooke Sandahl in 1991. Blake Herrington was the first to redpoint (place gear) the Lithuanian Lip pitch, which was only a slight improvement in style because of the fixed gear. Blake was also the first to redpoint the new slab free variation. Mikey Schaefer slipped a pink point of the Lip and a TR of the then unbolted slab (except for 1 mystery bolt) before Blake, muddying the free climbing history even more! Besides all this, the routes free beta has finally settled, and a handful have sent as follows:

P1: 11-, same as original.

P2: Lithuanian Lip, 13b (my suggestion). Fun 11- climbing in a corner leads to a scrunchy and powerful traverse to finger locks above the lip. Lock it in, high step to the lip, grit your teeth and stab to a good lock. Keep it together on 12- moves to a small stance below the bolt ladder. Use a triple length sling to make a belay out of a high and low bolt.

P3: The new free variation of the slab pitch, which differs from how Brooke Sandahl originally freed it (up the bolt ladder, which now seems blank), moves right before the bolt ladder. Clip the higher belay bolt, move right across sloping ledges, mantel, and execute cruxy foot step ups. Move back left under a hand rail feature to the belay above the bolt ladder.

P4: same as original P3. 11+, with a thin crux before reaching the small roof.

Protection 

Single rack from purple c3 to #3 BD, with a few extra in the tips to fingers size, maybe red c3 to .4 BD, and stoppers. 8 trad draws and 1 triple length sling for slab pitch belay. All belays are fixed.


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