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Liberty Cap
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Liberty Cap Tower 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a C1

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a C1 [details]
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Page Views: 446
Submitted By: Paul S on Jun 3, 2013

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Description 

Liberty Cap Tower is the squat tower that contains many of the routes in the area at its base. It's not the most aesthetic of towers, but the view from the top is actually pretty top notch.

For the 1st pitch there are several options, the easiest is to climb Steppin' On It, but continue past its anchor into the chimney and offwidth above. This will bring you to a ledge with junipers you can use to anchor off of. Alternatively, you could take several other cracks up to the big obvious ledge that Steppin' On It leads to.

Traverse to the left on the ledge until you are at the right-facing dihedral with a little roof and set a belay for the 2nd pitch. A short section of aid, which could go free with some strenuous liebacking, to some slightly dirty wide climbing that eventually slabs out to the top.

Location 

The route climbs the NE aspect of the tower.

To get down, look to the left once you are on top of the tower for a ramp that leads down. There's a rap anchor at the bottom of the little ramp. A 60m or so rap gets you to the ground. We used 70m ropes on the rap and had a bit extra, so I'm assuming 60m ropes will work, but it might be pretty close!!

Protection 

A double rack from #0.5-3 Camalots (plus an extra #3 for Steppin' On It) and a single set from #4-6 Camalots. Try to save 2 #1s for the anchor on top of p2, there's probably other sizes you could use up there, but the #1s are in good rock and fit perfectly.


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