REI Community
search
Advanced
El Mirador
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Access Denied  S 
Coatimundi S 
El Tiacuache TR 
Face the Music S 
La Prisa Mata  S 
Libertad S 
Yogi Goes to Mexico  S 
Yogi Unchained S 

Libertad 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 190'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Pat Lindenbach & Tati Gonsharova
Page Views: 418
Submitted By: MAKB on Dec 23, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Melissa somewhere near the top of Libertad. As ph...

Description 

A fun climb that lands you on a really cool, exposed summit.

P1 : climb over some blocks up into a dihedral and up to a ledge. (5.5?)
P2 : Climb up the dihedral for a bit and then step left onto the exposed dihedral at the fifth bolt. This is the money pitch.

Location 

The fourth route from the left, it climbs up the right side of Yogi's Pillar and is marked with a plaque.

Protection 

Bolts. Chain anchors. Ropes can easily get stuck on the rappel because of the blocky nature of the climb.


Photos of Libertad Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: following up Libertad
following up Libertad
Rock Climbing Photo: Melissa leading Libertad, as seen from Access Deni...
Melissa leading Libertad, as seen from Access Deni...

Comments on Libertad Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jonathan Steitzer
From: West Lebanon, NH
Jan 9, 2015
rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a

This climb is a cool climb that leads you up a neat feature, to a unique place in the park, but I feel like I have to add something to the route description-

Pitch 1 is basically 4th class. 5.0/5.1 maybe. Super blocky and low angle and easy.

Pitch 2 is more interesting, but goes at something like 5.3. Definitely not 5.7.

Lastly, I was able to rappel from the top of the climb to the base with a single 70 meter, so the climb is about 115' to 120' long.

The climb is cruiser, and I would recommend it to anyone. The approach trail is steep and loose, so be careful. Also be careful on the climb, the climb despite being a few years old has tons of loose blocks on it. From around baseball sized to microwave sized, there's a lot of loose rock just waiting to come off this one.

The pillar is sweet tho, so enjoy!
By Miguel S
Jan 6, 2016

Like Jonathan said, this is a really cool climb, but much easier than 5.7.

Unlike most people that go to EPC and crush, I don't climb a ton, and I flew down for a few days to meet up with a couple friends who are doing a 3 month road trip through mexico, who basically don't climb at all. That said, this was a fun way to kill a couple hours and bring them up a 2 pitch route. There is definitely some real good exposure, especially with howling winds, and the top is awesome. Watch out for some loose blocks though.

10 or so bolts each pitch, with solid chain anchors on top
By Idaho Bob
From: McCall, ID
Feb 26, 2017
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Note of caution on comments above. A 70m does NOT make it to the ground. Many options possible on P1 so you don't have to take the easy line. On P2 there is a blind step right between 5th and 6th bolt. It's a 5.7.
By Dan Africk
From: Brooklyn, New York
Mar 20, 2017

Very easy climbing, P1 is basically a scramble, but P2 has some fun moves. It's a good warmup if you or your partner are new to multi-pitch and want to go through the motions.

We made it down in one rap with a 70m. The rope didn't reach all the way to the bottom, but it was a very easy and short scramble to ground, pretty low risk and a nice time saver.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · People · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About