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BETA PHOTO: Not the best of photographs. But for what it's wo...
1) Beautiful thin crack to bolt protected face moves. 5.10a
2) Step left and climb cracks to the base of a clean R facing corner. 5.8
3) Climb the crack above the belay to a bolt protected face move. Undercling left and climb finger crack / small R facing corner. 10a. Alternatively, climb the corner instead at 5.9.
4) Climb the short vertical R facing corner to face moves leading to twin diagonal cracks. 5.9+.
5) Climb past a bolt then more easily to a ledge with a large block. 5.10a
6) Climb up the R facing corner to a 2nd R facing corner. At its top, step right and climb small left facing corner to a small belay ledge. 5.11b
7) Protecting high and traversing low, cross over the rib to the right. Belay in an alcove at the base of a large corner system. 5.10b. The Angishore Finish continues up the corner above to an exposed belay on the left. 5.9+ and 200' of 4th class to the top.
8) Traverse left past a large L facing corner. Get protection in the corner and continue left crossing over a small R facing corner. Belay beneath a R facing corner. 5.10a.
9) Climb past bolts to reach the exposed exit corner. 5.12a.
10) 200' 4th & easy 5th class.
- I believe all but the first belay has 2 bolts. If rapping the route, use the anchors at the top of Screech for the final rap to the traverse ledge.
Route starts on the far right side of the traverse ledge at the 2 bolt rap anchor.
Descent is an easy walk off to the west.
2 sets Camalots to #2. 1 #3 Camalot. 1 set Aliens or tcu's, 1 set wires incl small brass nuts, 8-10 runners & draws, 2, 60 M ropes.
Our weather window was short, so we didn't spend m...
Casey Shaw on the first pitch of Leviathan. Screec...