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Lever Action 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 900', Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]
FA: Greg Sievers, John Tormelheto, Dan Capalini, 7/1996
New Route: Yes
Season: summer
Page Views: 115
Submitted By: Greg Sievers on Nov 24, 2016

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Description 

When we couldn't quite find the start of Winchester, we followed the obvious, slanting crack, which just led us to wonderful terrain.

P1: ascend a thin, smooth seam that angles up and right, 5.9R.
P2: start out on the right then pierce thru easy overhangs. Continue up and left, and up and left through the 'inverted staircase'. It looks much scarier than it is, 5.8.
P3: climb the very steep, left-facing dihedral ending on a rounded dome-like top of a pillar.
P4:
P5: broken rock yields easier terrain and ends on a very large ledge.
P6: walk around to the left/south side of the buttress, and choose a chimney that will take you to the summit.

Walk off to the west and drop into The Gash for the long way back or scramble north onto the top of the 4th buttress and find zig-zag descent shared with the gully to the south and a 3rd to 4th class descend to the base.

I will fill in these details as soon as I find my damn notes.

Location 

It is next to Winchester.

Protection 

A standard alpine 1 & 1/2 rack up to a #4.


Photos of Lever Action Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Enjoying the day @ the 5th pitch belay.
Enjoying the day @ the 5th pitch belay.
Rock Climbing Photo: Dan starting the 4th pitch on the inverted stairca...
Dan starting the 4th pitch on the inverted stairca...
Rock Climbing Photo: Dan finishing the 3rd pitch.
Dan finishing the 3rd pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Inked in the line for your reference.
BETA PHOTO: Inked in the line for your reference.

Comments on Lever Action Add Comment
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By Greg Sievers
From: Bozeman, MT
Nov 24, 2016

Pics & details to come, honest.

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