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YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Bruce Hildenbrand and Dale Haas
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 7,244
Submitted By: Bruce Hildenbrand on Oct 10, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (296)
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Heading up Levada just above the second draw.

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  • Description 

    Face climb straight up past two bolts then trend a bit left to the arete passing several more bolts. Finish on the headwall above. The crux is probably getting to the first bolt, but the grade seems to stay pretty constant all the way to the last bolt. There is a 20' runout from the last bolt to the chains on easy, but fun terrain.


    This route starts about 75' to the right of Batso Canal, and about 20' right of Lambada. The first bolt is about 10' off the ground.


    9 bolts. Optional 2-3" cam for the easy runout to the anchor.

    Photos of Levada Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Near the bottom.
    Near the bottom.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Beautiful day on Levada.  (Photo: Julie Pudlo.)
    Beautiful day on Levada. (Photo: Julie Pudlo.)
    Rock Climbing Photo: Myong finding her way up Levada.
    Myong finding her way up Levada.

    Comments on Levada Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 3, 2016
    By Adam Berger
    Oct 17, 2008
    rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    Fun route, very dirty but will clean up with traffic. There is a run-out between the 2nd and 3rd bolt as well. If you take the easy way to the right it's not bad, but if you stick to the arete then be careful because a fall could land you on the ground. This section will take gear, probably a #1 C4 or smaller.
    By HTP
    From: Longmont, CO
    Oct 22, 2008

    I agree -- a little dirty, especially if you wander right (which I did several times), but based on how many climbers followed me Sunday, I'd say the loose dirt and lichen won't last long. There are two short runouts through easier sections: between bolts 2 and 3, and between the last bolt and the anchors. But it's very doable.
    By Julius Beres
    From: Boulder, CO
    Oct 25, 2008

    I did this today and thought it was more challenging than the 5.9 Made in the Shade because of the loose rock, but that should go away eventually. I did it without any gear, but I would consider bringing a #1-#2 cam for the long run out on easy ground between the last bolt and the anchor. If you made it that far, you probably won't fall, but it is a long way to the top from the last bolt.
    By ZachS00
    From: Denver, CO
    Oct 31, 2008

    Just on this today. About midway up I pulled on a jug sidepull that completely tore off, almost hitting my belayer. Beware of loose holds on the right side of the climb. Also, it blew my 5.8 onsight, which I track on
    By Bruce Hildenbrand
    Oct 31, 2008

    When we, the FA party, envisioned this route and bolted it, the line we climbed went straight up past the first two bolts then worked over to the arete on the left and climbed straight up that past three bolts then up the headwall above past three more bolts to the anchor. We spent two days cleaning the loose rock and lichen, bushes, etc. from this line.

    There is a gully to the right of the arete which contains some loose rock, bushes, etc. which is off the climbing line we bolted. Obviously, we can't dictate where people climb, but if you want to climb on rock which is most likely cleaner, then follow the line of the bolts.

    By Margo
    May 7, 2009
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    Fun route...took a bunch of new climber friends up there this last weekend...still a very dirty route and we had some good-sized rocks come off while we were climbing...but some people did go far off route and into the gully. Beginning is a little bouldery but good moves!
    By Bruce Hildenbrand
    Oct 6, 2009

    Today, my partner Dale and I, the original FA party, added a bolt on the runout between the 2nd and 3rd bolt. There are now nine (9) bolts on the route. We also did a bunch of cleaning in the gully to the right of the climbing line.
    By Darren Buford
    Jun 3, 2010
    rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

    Really fun lead. Getting to the first bolt is a bit iffy (have a spotter) and that last 20 feet between bolts is a bit terrifying for a new leader (didn't have this beta until I was looking down the barrel of the gun). Resist the temptation to move too far right of the bolts, or that last clip is gonna be an eye-opener, requiring a small traverse left of crimps.
    By Ben Burnett
    From: Colorado
    Jun 12, 2010
    rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    The line is good if you stay on the arete, bad if you move into the gully.
    By Michael Kopinsky
    Aug 20, 2010

    For some reason, this route is killer on the legs. I think it's because all the "resting" stances keep your legs at some kind of angle that strains the muscles. The secret is to keep moving - the longer you stand resting, the more it'll hurt.
    By pat thompson
    From: superior
    Aug 10, 2011

    FYI: there are wasps in the small crack 12 inches below the 3rd bolt. Can easily skip third bolt by climbing right and clipping 4th bolt.
    By J P
    From: Denver, CO
    Aug 30, 2011
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

    Definite runout between the last bolt and the anchors.

    Easy climbing from there, but slips happen, rock gives way, and it's going to be an ugly whipper.
    By Robert Buswold
    From: Northglenn, CO
    Sep 6, 2011

    This was a fun route, but it felt harder than its 5.9 neighbor down the way, "Made in the Shade." Anyone else agree?
    By Don Morris
    From: Denver, CO
    Sep 17, 2011
    rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    Warmed up with this route today. I am finding the new climbs in Clear Creek to have an inflated rating of difficulty. This climb compared to Eldo or even Golden Cliffs would rate no higher than a 7+. If this keeps up you might think you are a better climber than you are, until you dare to get on a Layton Kor 5.9. I would recommend keeping the ratings conservative for the respect of the crag and developer.
    By Furthermore
    Jun 14, 2012
    rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

    There is a missing hanger on the 5th-6th bolt (I don't remember which one at the moment). Be prepared for a long mid section run-out.

    Without that hanger on the bolt, the climb is now PG-13.
    By Bruce Hildenbrand
    Jun 17, 2012

    Replaced the missing hanger and bolt on this route today. As a bit of history this particular bolt, the sixth on the route, was a spinner and a climber felt it was safer to remove the nut, washer and hanger rather than to hand tighten the nut.

    Personally, I would disagree with this decision. It seems to me to be safer to hand tighten the nut and then either come back with the appropriate wrench to properly tighten it or tell someone who is more qualified about the problem so they can properly tighten it.

    To avoid further problems, I added 3/8" SS lock washers to all the bolts.

    Also, I removed the chains and added Mussy Hooks to the quicklinks. Those not familiar with how to use Mussy Hooks at an anchor should obtain proper information. As a quick summary, these are beefy steel hooks, and while it is poor form to belay and lower through chains or rings, it is advised to belay and lower through Mussy Hooks. Those not comfortable with this setup have the option of clipping draws through the quicklinks or the hooks themselves.

    Thanks to Ron Olsen for donating the hooks. Thanks to the Lord of the Canal, Kirk Miller, for retrieving the hanger, washer, and nut which were taken off the 6th bolt. Happy and safe climbing!
    By NickMartel
    From: Tucson, Arizona
    Apr 1, 2013
    rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

    Bruce: I have put up a few routes on Mt. Lemmon in Tucson, AZ and was given a bunch of the EXACT same hooks (china stamp etc...). I really liked them and how easy they were to use until one of the gates got DESTROYED by just pulling a rope (that was a bit twisted) through it, I still have that one it if you want to see it, but regardless I no longer endorse them. Food for thought....
    Just my $0.02....
    Thanks anyways, it is the thought that counts.
    By NickMartel
    From: Tucson, Arizona
    Apr 1, 2013
    rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

    Regarding the route. The crux is getting to the 1st bolt, but solid throughout. Good hand but tricky feet. Spot your climber till they get the 1st bolt clipped.
    By Jeremy C
    From: Golden, CO
    Oct 14, 2013
    rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    Try very hard not to fall while gaining the anchors. It's probably only 5.6 thorough this last 20ft but would generate a pretty long fall. The rest of the route is fairly sustained and drifts sideways in a couple of cool spots.
    By Jason Platt
    May 28, 2014

    The route is awesome! Getting off the ground is pretty difficult, but the landing is good, so it's not that big of a deal. Once you are above the first clip, the climb is really sweet. It's a bit easier if you stay right, but the arete is also really cool. The runout at the top is no big deal, since the climbing is very easy. If you can climb to the runout, there is pretty much no way you would manage to fall on the last few moves. It also stays shady until 1ish even in the summer, which is a plus.
    By Bruce Hildenbrand
    Sep 30, 2015

    Dale Haas and I did some minor route maintenance today. We replaced the worn Mussy Hooks. We made sure all the bolts were tight. Lastly, I trundled the block with the white X on it about 3/4 of the way up the climb to the right. It is now a cheat stone to keep your shoes clean while you try and get established on the footholds at the start.
    By Brett Wagner
    From: Golden, CO
    Jun 3, 2016
    rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    Fun route, goofy start. Clean your shoes first.

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