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Routes in Little Wilson
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American Dream S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Aqua Lung S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Climb With A View S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Code 3 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Dragon, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Duty, Honor, Country S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Fin, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Fire Ants S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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First Encounter S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Got Hops? S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Jean Claude Trans-Am (F.A. 2001) S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Jigsaw, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Let's Roll S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Ron Rico S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Slipstream: V3 (F.A. 2006) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Tanqueray S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Tiny Gun S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Wall of Voodoo S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Wizard, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,885 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Tom Caldwell on Jul 4, 2011 · Updates |
| Admins: | Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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Description
Another funky wild climb. Look for the "bird's nest" above a big roof to the right of the dihedral.
Gain the big ledge shared with the Dragon and Code 3. Stand up on some loose blocks on the ledge to get to the first jugs in the dihedral. Make the slightly reachy clip out right, don't blow it. Start up the sustained dihedral to get to the next bolt out left. Make even more tough moves to gain the next bolt and work your way around the tricky roof. Clip one last bolt and make a few more steep moves to the anchors.
Gain the big ledge shared with the Dragon and Code 3. Stand up on some loose blocks on the ledge to get to the first jugs in the dihedral. Make the slightly reachy clip out right, don't blow it. Start up the sustained dihedral to get to the next bolt out left. Make even more tough moves to gain the next bolt and work your way around the tricky roof. Clip one last bolt and make a few more steep moves to the anchors.
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